how to groom a labradoodle at home

How to Groom a Labradoodle at Home?

A labradoodle can be one of the hardest dogs to groom. This is mainly due to the type of fur they have. However, if you’re looking to groom your labradoodle at home, we’re here to make sure you’re able to do it in the best way possible.

Benefits of Home Grooming

It may come as a surprise to most people, but many dog owners actually prefer dog grooming within the comfort of their own homes. There are a couple of reasons why this is the case. The main reasons are as follows:


Let’s be real. Dog grooming is not cheap. Especially if we’re talking about grooming a labradoodle, going to a professional groomer can be super pricey, and in this day and age, it’s usually preferable to groom at home to save yourself a ton of money.

Less Stressful

If your dog is anything like mine, you know how stressful it can be to make them go to the groomers. And while you’re actually there, they’d usually make a whole scene by whining about being there. To save yourself the stress of dealing with that, groom your dog at home.

Tools Needed for Labradoodle Grooming

Labradoodle grooming is nothing like grooming your average dog. This takes quite a bit of work, and you really need full dedication to complete it successfully. Here are the main tools that you’d need if you’re going to groom your labradoodle:

Dog Comb

The most basic dog grooming tool that you’d need at your disposal is a dog comb. We recommend getting a steel one since they’re the sturdiest and can last you quite a long time without breaking. A dog comb is going to come in hand to get rid of the mats and tangles.

Dog Clippers

Getting a good set of clippers is an essential part of labradoodle grooming since you’re going to be doing quite a lot of clipping here and there. You can even get clippers that were specifically made to cut labradoodle hair. These are essential in giving your dog a fresh look.

Detangle Spray

With a labradoodle, you’re almost bound to run into a lot of tangles and mats. This is why it’s almost essential to have a detangle spray on hand. This can make detangling those mats much easier. If you brush your labradoodle on a regular basis, this may not be necessary.

Dog Shampoo and Conditioner

You can’t have a grooming session without a dog shampoo and a dog conditioner! Most people assume that you get right into the clipping and styling with grooming, but you actually have to take your dog a bath first. This can go both ways, depending on what type of dog you have.

Dog Nail Grinder

Dogs need a manicure and pedicure sometimes, just like we do. This is why you need to get them a nail grinder that grinds down their nails till they’re nice and short. The noise may scare your dog, but it’s actually not painful, maybe just a bit uncomfortable.

Grooming Scissors 

In addition to having a pair of dog clippers, you will also need some regular grooming scissors. These are to trim the hair or fur on some of the more delicate or tricky areas like the face, paws, and ears. If you’re looking to get into labradoodle grooming, these are almost essential.

Grooming Table and Leash

Last but not least, you can’t have a grooming session without the grooming table and leash. A grooming table is essential to make sure your dog is at your height level so you can groom them without breaking your back. The leash is to make sure they don’t try to run away.

How to Groom your Labradoodle at Home

Now that we’ve understood why it is better to groom a labradoodle at home and what tools we need, it’s time to move on to how to actually groom them. We’re going to be breaking this section down with a bath time followed by grooming per body part.

Labradoodle Bath Time

  • Leash your labradoodle so they don’t run away and slip in the process and hurt themselves.
  • Use a shower head to get water into all their inner coats properly.
  • Shampoo them first and wash them out. Then condition them and wash them out.
  • Use a hair dryer to dry them properly. Make sure to get into all their coat layers.

Labradoodle Belly Grooming

  • Make your dog stand by using a saddle or just nudging them to stand up.
  • Use a #5 or #7 blade to trim their belly hair to keep them cool in the summers.
  • Don’t overdo it, as Labradoodles don’t have much hair on their bellies.

Labradoodle Leg Grooming

  • It is preferable to keep leg hair short to prevent them from getting dirty during walks.
  • Use the same #5 or #7 blade to make the leg hair match the length of the belly hair.
  • Start from the highest point in the leg and slowly make your way down to the paws.

Labradoodle Paw Grooming

  • A labradoodles paws are going to be the most matted and would need to be shaved
  • The best way to shave their paws is using the #1 blade and doing right into it
  • On occasion, your labradoodle is not okay with this; you may need to use scissors

Labradoodle Face Grooming

  • Most people prefer to keep their labradoodles facial hair on the longer side.
  • Using a #9 blade to begin with can give them the perfect length of hair.
  • Finish it off by using scissors to give everything a more clean and balanced look.

Labradoodle Tail Grooming

  • A labradoodle tail is usually the slowest to grow, so it’s best kept on the longer side.
  • You can use a clipper or razor and start from their bottom and make your way to the end.
  • Depending on how often your dog has a poop mess, this may not be a pleasant task.

Final Verdict

Well, there you have it. This is a detailed guide on how to groom your labradoodle at home. If you reach this far, you know that this is not an easy task by any means. However, if you’re willing to put in the effort, it can save you a lot of stress and money from going to the groomers.


New puppy checklist at Labradoodles at Cucciolini

Are you wondering if your house is properly puppy-proofed? or how to prepare for a puppy? Do you have all the supplies that your new puppy can’t live without? Does everyone in your home understand the rules and routines of welcoming a new dog? Don’t worry; you are not alone. This guide will help you create a safe and comforting environment for the your new puppy from Labradoodles by Cucciolini in Ontario and help you find the right products and tools to care for your new Furry friend.

Tips to help you slowly introduce your new puppy to your other pets.

1) Provide each pet separate spaces in the house, like a room, where they can go to feel safe from the other animals. Even if both pets are tense, a space that is secure and separate from the other can help them relax and self-soothe.

2) Provide a Neutral Territory A common area that can be neutral ground is ideal for trial interactions to reduce common territorial behaviors. You can let the pets explore neutral territory separately and in short sessions before they meet, but avoid leaving toys or belongings from either animal in this space. You want both parties to regard this space as neutral.

3) Animals feel most vulnerable during feeding times, as they would in the wild. If there is any tension between the pets, they may fear the other will take the opportunity and either attack or steal their food. You are more likely to see aggression when food is involved.

4) Look at Body Language. Body language in pets can help you recognize anxiety and fear. This can help you prevent negative interactions. Dogs that cower or cry may be telling you that they are too afraid to interact. This will help you determine the speed at which you should introduce your pets.

5) Like any other type of training, pets can be motivated by a tasty6 or fun reward. If your pets are calm and confident during their interactions with each other, then rewarding them with a healthy but tasty snack can help them associate their new friend with positive feelings.

6) When your pets feel confident and relaxed, you should monitor but encourage interaction. Puppies tend to be more confident because they are blissfully ignorant to many potential dangers around them, but your older pets may decide to make the first move.

7) Look for activities that both animals can engage in. Finding common ground is a great way to lower tension and help pets feel more comfortable around each other. Walking is a great option when introducing two dogs, but you may have to get creative with other species.

8) Your anxieties and worries can affect your pets. Of course, you should stay close and monitor all interactions between both pets, but you need to have a little faith. Overreacting to normal pet behavior can trigger negative reactions in your pets.

9) With other dogs and cats, it’s worth putting in some extra time and effort to encourage a relationship with your new pup, but it’s not guaranteed that they will ever be besties. Some species just aren’t compatible, like ferrets, rodents, birds, and reptiles. If they have to stay separate, then you’ll need to make accommodations in your home for both animals.

10) There is nothing cuter than when you find your pets snuggled up taking a nap together, but that dream may never come true. In some cases, simply tolerating each other and sharing space is the most you can get, and that’s OK! As long as they respect each other’s space and presence, then that is a win!


Puppies needs exercise and interaction. Sustained, strenuous exercise (long runs, jumping) is not good for puppies, but playing, mental stimulation, and running around in the yard are good. Some experts recommend waiting until a dog is about one year old before starting with serious exercise and this can vary by breed. Different dog breeds have different energy levels and rates of growth; the growth plates in their joints close at different ages. But do schedule play and exercise time into your puppy’s day: a walk around the neighborhood, playing with toys, and time spent bonding go a long way toward expending energy. Several shorter sessions are better for a puppy than one long one.

Naps and Bedtime

Has your new puppy been waking you up at night? Are you wondering why your puppy won’t sleep?

While your new puppy’s sleep schedule might not (yet) be in sync with yours, there are quite a few recommended tricks and tips you can try to help both of you get as much sleep as possible.

Puppies require a lot of attention and management while they grow. Thank goodness that puppy-hood doesn’t last long!”

Young puppies sleep a great deal of the time; in fact, some will sleep as much as 16-to-18 hours a day. Plan on quiet nap times for him several times during the day. Family members, especially young children, should learn not to disturb him when he’s sleeping. He needs his rest! You may need to put a crate in a quiet part of the house so he won’t be distracted by the hustle and bustle that may be going on during naptime.

When it comes to bedtime, some owners set a specific time to settle their puppy down for the night. Others just want him to sleep when they sleep. It may be easier to set a puppy bedtime and help him get used to the routine.

There are a few reasons why your puppy may not sleep peacefully after you bring them home:

They aren’t used to sleeping without their littermates and mother. This can cause isolation distress.

They can feel uncertain about their new surroundings. Everything smells and looks different, and they may hear sounds they’ve never heard before throughout the night. This change may be exciting for them, making it hard to settle down and sleep, or it may be overwhelming and make them nervous.

Young puppies have small bladders. Most cannot hold it throughout an entire night, and many puppies instinctively don’t want to soil where they sleep, they’ll whine or cry in their crate if they feel the urge to go.

A Sample Puppy Schedule

First thing in the morning: Take the puppy out to relieve himself. Make time to play and interact with him after he’s taken care of business.

Breakfast time: Feed the puppy. Leave the food down for no longer than 15 minutes. After that, pick up the bowl and give no more food until the next meal (except for small treats used for training). Wash the water bowl and provide clean water.

After puppy’s breakfast: Puppies usually need to relieve themselves again, within a few minutes of eating, so give another potty opportunity. After this, spend some time playing and/or doing a little training with your puppy. And though everyone is busy in the morning getting ready for work or school, make time for a quick walk to give him a chance to do his business one more time.

Mid-morning: The rest of the morning might be devoted to nap time, ideally in a dog crate or pen. Even if you’re home during the day, your puppy should spend time in a crate or pen; this will help him learn how to be alone when necessary. It’s also impossible to know what a puppy will get into when you turn away for a moment and there needs to be a place to put him when you can’t supervise directly. If he will be home alone for more hours than he can control his bladder or bowels, you need to set up a pen with an area for him to relieve himself – or consider having a pet sitter come to take him out.

Noon: A repeat of the early morning routine – as soon as he wakes up, a trip outside. Then lunch, and another trip outside should follow the meal. Spend some time playing with and training him, so he can burn some energy. And don’t forget one more potty break before the afternoon nap!

Mid-afternoon: When he wakes up, it’s time to go out — again. And time to play and train, again. Then a chance to potty. If you’re home, he can hang out with you for a while before dinner.

Dinner: If you arrange his mealtimes around yours, it will become natural to feed him either while you’re preparing dinner or while the household is eating. But pay attention so you can take him outside as soon as he’s finished. Before the family sits down to dinner, it’s a good idea to give the puppy a chew toy to enjoy in his crate. This way he won’t get underfoot, and nobody will be tempted to give him tidbits from the table.

Evening: Another potty break! The early evening is a good time for lots of interaction. For many puppies this is the “witching hour,” and if you anticipate it by initiating play, he may settle down. If he doesn’t, even after plenty of exercise, give him a treat and let him settle in the crate for a while. Later, an evening stroll gives him exercise and a chance to take a potty break. And make sure he potties right before bed.

Bedtime: A set bedtime makes his adjustment and house training easier for everyone. It doesn’t matter if it’s 8 p.m. or midnight, as long as it becomes a routine. Take him to his crate and help him settle down for the night.

Night: If your puppy is not yet able to make it through the night, set an alarm so you can get up and take him out for a quick, boring potty break. It’s better to wake up a little before you think he will, so that you are not responding to whining and barking. Then back to bed so you’ll be ready for the next wonderful day with your puppy!

By establishing the routine from the very beginning, you’ll be on your way to a happy, well-adjusted dog.

Feeding: Should be done twice daily

Fresh water: Check water daily for cleanliness and sufficiency

Clean Crates: Should be done daily. This helps with maintenance of pet hygiene.

Coat maintenance: Twice weekly is best with a slicker brush. This also serves as bonding activity for both the handler and pet.

Dental care: Teeth must be brushed twice weekly, preferably before or after coat brushings.

Check and Trim Toenails:  As needed

Ear Care: Check and clean ears twice weekly with a finger tissue and dog ear cleaner.

Pluck hair from ears with index finger and thumb to prevent ear infection

Grooming: As needed. This is usually done once every month or two (as desired).

Ensure that groomer is aware of your expectations regarding ear and nail care.

Bath Doodle: On an as needed basis. When bathing the dog, ensure that no soap gets in the eyes. If this occurs, rinse immediately with cold water. Take special care to rinse thoroughly after the bath. Soap left on a dog can cause skin and eye irritation. Dry with towel and hair dryer.

Review Training Commands:  Review commands with a dog twice weekly by rewarding with treats. This serves to reinforce overall training and is another opportunity for bonding.

Play time with dog: Should be done daily. Labradoodles are a highly active breed and need play opportunities regularly for health and weight management.

Positive reinforcement: Reward desired behaviors with treats. This serves as a means to encourage these activities.

Crate uses: Never crate as a disciplinary action. The crate should serve as a safe haven only. When the pets coat gets wet (rain, snow, etc.), dry with towel and hair dryer while brushing to help prevent matting.

Plan for Travel

Bringing your puppy home is beyond exciting, and it’s easy to forget some essential supplies that you will need for the journey back home. Here are some of the supplies that you should pre-pack:

Crate or carrier
Blanket or bed
Collar and leash
Water bowls
Wipes for possible clean-up

Your puppy will probably be overwhelmed by this move. They may cry, bark, or just sleep the whole way, but having all of these supplies will make sure that you are prepared for any possible scenario.

Your new puppy should be safely positioned on your lap (not the driver’s lap), or secured in a comfortably sized kennel or crate to ensure they are not able to wander around the vehicle if they are feeling adventurous.

From puppy gates to choosing the best puppy food, you’ll want to make sure to have the following:

Water Bowls

Water bowls are essential to any new puppy checklist and there are many options out there for you to choose from, including travel options for keeping your puppy hydrated on-the-go.

It might seem obvious but different pups need different water bowls because of their size, eating style or medical needs.

If you’re welcoming a large dog breed into your home, chances are they’ll benefit from having a slightly raised water bowl so they can comfortably drink without having to bend their head too close down to the floor. Consider a non-slip silicone mat to make sure they aren’t sliding all over the floor.

It’s a trial and error process and you may end up with several different bowls before you get the right one for your pup, so take into account how much water your puppy needs, and go from there.

Puppy Food

Choosing the best puppy food for your dog is a tricky process and as we said above, can take some trial and error before you land on the right one. Do you shop grain-free, or try them on raw? Dry food or canned?

Whatever route you decide to go down, keep in mind that your puppy needs a balanced diet packed with nutrients they need to develop into a strong, healthy dog.

Depending on their size and energy levels, your puppy may need up to twice the daily amount of nutrition consumed by adult dogs so whatever type of food you get, make sure it’s 100% complete and balanced puppy food. If you’re unsure at any time about the type of food that’s best for your pup, ask your vet for advice.

Puppy treats, including training treats

Any treat you give your pup should be small enough for them to chew, ideally bite-sized for their smaller mouths to handle. The smaller pieces will also be easier to digest in their smaller stomachs.

As they get older small amounts of lean meats like turkey and chicken are good and make tasty training morsels for food-driven pups. Cooked or raw veg like broccoli and carrots are great too.

Adjustable Collar

A new puppy checklist wouldn’t be complete without a new collar. A padded, adjustable one is perfect as it’s nice and soft against your pup’s skin and will grow with them. Bonus points if you pick a brand with a reflective detailing for added visibility on nighttime walks.

Puppy Leash

Picking the right puppy leash is a must for any new puppy checklist. Some pups chew and pull, while others need to be kept close to avoid mischief.

For training, you can’t go far wrong with a long nylon leash. The 15 feet long leashes are perfect for recall training and walks in the park.

Heavy chewer? Go for a tightly-webbed nylon option that’s nice and thick to protect against tiny teeth. Alternatively, if your pup is a puller a shock-absorbing bungee cord will help reduce the strain on both the leash and on you when your pup pulls, while still giving you control.

Puppy Toys

There’s a great selection of puppy toys out there to choose from. Whether it’s an interactive puzzle toy or a delicious chew toy, there’s something for every pup to enjoy.

Chew toys

Puppies love to chew so give them plenty of options with some durable chew toys. It keeps them busy and stops them from attacking your favorite slippers.

Chase toys

For puppies with lots of energy, chase toys like balls and Chuck-it help get all that extra energy out.

Interactive toys

For high boredom pups, an interactive toy like a treat puzzle or a snuffle mat will keep their brains stimulated for a while.

Plush toys

What pup doesn’t love a soft toy? Let your new arrival snuggle down with a comforting plush toy at nap time.

Crate and Sleeping Bed


Whether you decide to crate train, are planning to travel with your pup, or just want to use one in the car for vet appointments, a good crate is a must-have. Pick a collapsible crate with a moveable wire divider that can grow with your pup and be stowed away easily when not in use.

Sleeping bed

Getting the right sleeping arrangements for your new pup is essential for making them feel at home. New puppies can feel a tad lonely in their first few weeks without their birth mom, so a comforting space to retreat to can help bring a sense of comfort as they settle into their new home.

Here’s our top picks for beds:

Doughnut beds

With their raised edges and cosy textures, doughnut dog beds are perfect for your puppy to cuddle up against. They’re a great option if your pup is a little nervous as the raised edges help give them safety and security.

Memory foam

Memory foam beds are another popular choice for pups. The relaxing memory foam provides excellent levels of comfort for your pooch and you can often buy them custom made to their specific size and shape, which helps make them feel even more relaxed. Memory foam beds are incredibly durable too, perfect for heavy chewers.

Dog grooming products

Puppy brush

Even low-shed breeds need to be brushed from time to time and regular grooming is a great way of getting your pup used to being handled early. Pick a brush with gentle rubber bristles to massage and comb your dog’s coat. It goes without saying, if you have a breed that requires regular grooming then it’s important to brush through their fur every day to avoid knots and improve circulation.


Getting them used to water early is essential because it helps minimize fear in the long run. A great way to help them enjoy bath time is with a gentle puppy shampoo. Pick a tear less shampoo in a calming scent with no nasties like parabens for a shiny, clean coat.

Top tip: For long haired pups or those with coarse, wiry fur texture we recommend introducing your pup to the groomer at around 10-12 weeks. Not only does this make sure their coat stays in tip top condition but it gets them used to the experience with minimal stress.

Puppy Toothpaste and Toothbrush

Puppy dental hygiene is important and it’s good to get started as early as possible. Go for a set with meat-floured toothpaste, a dual-sided toothbrush and a finger brush to get your new arrival used to their mouth being touched.

Stain and Scent Remover

Accidents are a guarantee and you’ll need some products to help remove stains and scents from your furniture and carpets. There’s a wide variety of things available to help conquer odors and stains including upholstery shampoos. Don’t forget to pick up a great vacuum too – one with useful pet attachments is a must.

Bitter Apple Spray

Non-toxic bitter apple spray is a deterrent to discourage your pup from chewing. The spray is safe to use on your furniture, fabric and even your dog’s fur to stop them from nagging at their skin.

Poop Bags

Poop bags are a necessity for any new pup owner. Opt for an environmentally-friendly option with some composable and biodegradable bags.

Puppy Gate

Being able to limit your puppy’s access to the rest of your home while you puppy proof everything is essential. They still stay safe and sound nearby.

Puppy Pads

Accidents are bound to happen as you housebreak your pup. Absorbent and protective, puppy pads are a great option for those in between training times.

ID and Tags

Easily identify your pup in case they escape and make sure they’re registered and up to date of all your details, including your current address. There’s plenty of cute tags to choose from too.

So there you have it, your comprehensive new puppy checklist. Once you’ve checked off everything you need off your list, you’re ready to welcome your new pup to your home. Just sit back and watch chaos ensue.


Labradoodles and Hypoglycemia What is hypoglycemia in dogs

Hypoglycemia in dogs and Puppies!

Hypoglycemia in dogs and puppies?

Hypoglycemia in Dogs & Puppies is a condition that can develop in dogs when their blood sugar levels fall too low. The body needs glucose for energy, and when levels drop too low, the body’s cells may not have enough energy to function properly.

Low blood sugar (glucose) is called hypoglycemia (hypo = low + glyc = sugar + emia = in the blood). Hypoglycemia is caused by many different conditions and some of them are quite serious.

A few examples include:

Severe liver disease
Congenital portosystemic liver shunts in puppies
Hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s disease)
Severe bacterial infection (sepsis)
Inadequate nutrition in kittens and toy breed puppies
Extreme exertion (seen in hunting dogs and high-performing sport dogs)
Over-treatment (too much insulin) of diabetes mellitus (also called sugar diabetes)
Some types of tumors, especially a tumor of the pancreas, called an islet cell tumor or insulinoma
Xylitol toxicity from ingesting certain sugar free foods (e.g., gum, candies, peanut butter)

These signs and symptoms might not specify hypoglycemia, there can be various other feasible hidden clinical reasons. The most effective method to identify hypoglycemia if by having the blood sugar level degree gauged while the signs and symptoms appear.


If you observe any one of the signs and symptoms of hypoglycemia in your Labradoodle, it is recommended to see a vet right away. If your pet dog has actually currently passed out, or is noticeably at the point of falling down, you will certainly require calling your vet for guidelines on instant at-home therapy, adhered to by a see with the medical professional.

The clinical term for seriously reduced degrees of sugar in the blood is hypoglycemia, and it is commonly connected to diabetes mellitus and also an overdose of insulin. The blood glucose, or sugar, is a major power of resource in a pet’s body, so a reduced quantity will certainly lead to a serious decline in power degrees, perhaps to the point of loss of awareness.

Even if you can treat your pet dog in your home throughout the episode of hypoglycemia, you will certainly still require seeing your vet to make sure that blood work can be done. Your vet will certainly require doing a total blood account, a chemical blood account, a complete blood count, as well as a urinalysis. You will certainly require offering your vet a detailed background of your pet’s health and wellness, start of signs, current diet regimen and also any type of drugs you have actually been offering to your pet dog.


There are problems aside from diabetes mellitus that can additionally create blood glucose degrees to go down to hazardous degrees in canines. In many pets, hypoglycemia is in fact not a condition per se, yet is just a sign of an additional underlying illness.

There might be a number of reasons for hypoglycemia, however one of the most usual is the adverse effects triggered by medications that are being made use of to deal with diabetic issues. Pets with diabetes mellitus are provided insulin to assist manage the problem, yet an overdose of insulin, or greater does of insulin offered when blood sugar degrees are greater than regular, can trigger the body to refine excessive sugar, lowering the degrees of sugar in the blood to degrees that are also reduced for the body’s demands. This is when a state of hypoglycemia might happen, as well as if it is not dealt with swiftly, the mind might be harmed irreparably, bring about fatality.

Medical diagnosis

Anorexia nervosa (Anorexia nervosa).
Raised appetite.
Aesthetic instability, such as obscured vision.
Disorientation and also complication– might reveal a noticeable lack of ability to finish fundamental regular jobs.
Weak point, reduced power, loss of awareness.
Seizures (uncommon).
Anxiousness, uneasiness.
Heart palpitations.

The mind really requires a constant supply of sugar in order to work correctly, as it does not shop as well as produce sugar itself. When sugar degrees go down to a hazardously reduced degree, a problem of hypoglycemia occurs. This is a hazardous wellness problem as well as requires to be dealt with rapidly as well as suitably. If you think hypoglycemia, particularly if your pet is gotten rid of to this problem, you will certainly require dealing with the problem swiftly prior to it comes to be harmful.

Signs and Symptoms

There are 2 sorts of therapies for hypoglycemia symptoms, among which is provided when the episode is happening, to increase blood glucose degrees right away, and the various other to deal with the underlying problem, to stop hypoglycemia from reoccurring.

The preliminary therapy for hypoglycemia would mainly rely on the signs and symptoms. A few of the very early signs and symptoms can be dealt with by taking in sugar or sugar in any kind of type. Nevertheless, for significant signs and symptoms that harm the capability to take sugar via the mouth, you will certainly require to infuse glucagons or offer intravenous sugar. Your vet will certainly require determining the underlying reason and treat it in order to protect against reoccurring hypoglycemia. According to the hidden problems that are discovered to be triggering your pet’s blood sugar degrees to go down, the therapies can consist of medicines or lump therapy. Your physician will just recognize which therapy strategy to go after as soon as the lab examinations have returned and have actually been examined.

Examples of more advanced tests would include:

Serum bile acid testing. If either liver disease or a portosystemic shunt is suspected, then measurement of serum bile acids would be recommended.

X-rays and ultrasound. These imaging studies would be used to assess the liver and other abdominal organs, especially if liver disease, insulinoma, or other tumors are suspected.
Biopsy followed by microscopic examination would be recommended if a tumor or abnormal organ is found on imaging. The biopsy might be collected by fine needle aspiration, ultrasound-guided biopsy, or surgical intra-operative biopsy.

ACTH stimulation test would be recommended if Addison’s disease is suspected.
Blood culture would be recommended if widespread bacterial infection (sepsis) is suspected. Blood culture confirms the presence of bacteria in the blood stream and determines which antibiotic should used treat the infection.

Blood insulin: glucose ratio. The simultaneous measurement of blood insulin and blood glucose levels may help to confirm the presence of an insulinoma. Finding too much insulin in the blood of an animal that is truly hypoglycemic is strong evidence of underlying insulinoma. Typically, imaging studies and possibly biopsy would be recommended to confirm the diagnosis.


Dogs Vision how they see the World

Dogs Vision & how they see the World!

The idea that dogs can’t see color was widely accepted for decades, but new research and conclusions about canine anatomy and behavior have shown that while dogs can’t see the same colors humans do, dogs can still see some colors.

Eye Anatomy

The anatomy of a dog’s eye is very similar to that of a human eye. Dogs have an upper and lower eyelid, the same as people.

There are many other similarities, including:

Sclera: Tough, fibrous layer that’s often referred to as the “white” of the eye

Cornea: Thin, clear layer at the front of the eye that can be injured easily

Conjunctiva: Lining of the eyelids that can become inflamed and pink in color when dogs get excited, have allergies, or have an eye infection

Iris: Colored part of the eye that contains smooth muscle and controls the size of pupil, regulating how much light enters the eye

Pupil: Black area in the center of the iris; It contracts (gets smaller) in bright light or dilates (gets bigger) in dim light

Lens: Located behind the iris; it changes shape to focus light on the retina

Retina: Located in the back of the eye; it contains photo-receptors called rods, which sense light and movement, and other photo-receptors called cones, which sense colors

Dogs also have eye structures that people lack:

Tapetum lucidum: Located behind the retina, the tapetum lucidum reflects light through the retina, increasing the light available to the photo-receptors. This why animals see better at night, and it makes an animal’s eyes appear to glow at night when lights reflect from the animal’s eye.

Third eyelid: Known as the nictitating membrane, the third eyelid is whitish in color and is located at the corner of the eye, near the nose. It helps protect the eye from scratches and also moves across the eye when a dog blinks to help produce tears.

What Eye Colors Can a Dog Have?

The iris, or colored part of a dog’s eye, can be brown, blue, golden, or hazel. Brown is the dominant color for most dogs. Dogs can have two different-colored eyes, which most often occurs in dogs with a Merle coat pattern, or in certain breeds such as Huskies or Australian Shepherds.

If a dog has light-colored (blue) eyes, it does not mean that they will have vision problems, blindness, or any other health concerns. The iris pigmentation can vary depending on breed, color of the face, and genetics.

How Good Is Dog Vision?

How does a dog’s vision compare to ours? There’s no simple answer, since dogs have worse eyesight in some respects, but better eyesight in other areas. Here’s how a dog’s eyesight stacks up when it comes to visual acuity, peripheral vision, detecting movement, seeing colors, and seeing in the dark.

Do Dogs Have 20/20 Eyesight?

Dogs cannot see objects as well as humans. Normal human vision is 20/20. Most dogs have a visual acuity of 20/75, meaning a dog has to be 20 feet away to see an object as well as a person can see at 75 feet away. Labrador Retrievers, which are a breed commonly used as seeing-eye dogs for humans, have better eyesight that is closer to 20/20.

Are Dogs Near-Sighted or Far-Sighted?

A dog’s vision is blurry. If a dog were a human, they would be considered near-sighted and would need glasses to see objects farther away, like the board in the front of the classroom or a road sign.

How Well Can Dogs See Moving Objects?

Dogs have more rods in the retina than humans do. Rods are sensitive to shape, movement, and dim light. Dogs can see moving objects much better than stationary objects, and they have 10-20 times greater motion sensitivity than humans.

Dogs can pick up on small changes in body posture and movement as a result. This is one reason why dogs can be trained with silent cues using hand gestures.

Can Dogs See in the Dark?

Dogs have several anatomical advantages that allow them to see better in the dark than we can:

More rods in their retina, which function better in dim light

Larger pupils that allow more light into the eye

A lens that is closer to the retina, making the image brighter

The tapetum lucidum, which reflects light, allowing for better night vision

Can Dogs See Color?

Dogs can see color, but only in shades of blue and yellow. Because dogs can only see two colors, they have dichromatic vision. They can also see shades of gray. Colors such as red, orange, and green are out of a dog’s color spectrum, so these colors are not visible to dogs. This is why hunters can wear orange to be visible to other hunters but not to animals. People have what’s called trichromatic vision, which means we can see a lot more colors than dogs.

Do Dogs Have Side Vision?

A dog’s eyes are spaced slightly farther apart than ours, at a 20-degree angle. This greater angle increases the field of view and therefore a dog’s peripheral (side) vision.

How Do You Check a Dog’s Vision?

Dogs can’t read an eye-chart, nor do they need to be able to read or write. Because they have less need for good eyesight, known as visual acuity, checking a dog’s vision is very basic.

If a dog can walk into a room through the door or navigate an obstacle course in an exam room in bright and dim light, they are said to have decent vision. Dog eye specialists, or veterinary ophthalmologists, can perform dog eye exams, check their vision, and perform surgery to help dogs see better, such as cataract surgery.

By Harriet Meyers


Why Is My Puppy Lethargic

Why Is My Puppy Lethargic?

Signs and symptom that can appear with several health and wellness problems in Puppies. If your pup is acting tired, the only way to absolutely determine the cause as well as the best treatment is having a veterinarian  examine them.  Continue reading to understand more about sluggish puppies, from just how to inform sleepiness, exhaustion and possible sources of lethargy in pups, and when to call the vet.

Lethargy in Puppies?

Lethargy is defined as a lack of energy and enthusiasm, but what does that mean for your puppy? It is an important distinction to know if your puppy is truly lethargic (which could indicate a medical issue) or is just tired.

It may be difficult to make that distinction, but you know your dog better than anyone. Recognizing when your dog is lethargic and being proactive helps your veterinarian give your dog the best care.

Difference Between a Lethargic Dog and a Tired Dog?

A puppy that is lethargic is unusually inactive and not interested in getting up and doing normal activities. The severity of lethargy can vary but ranges from just moving more slowly to really having no interest in walks or play.

A tired puppies may just be sleeping but is easily roused and ready to pop up if they hear the treat jar or the jingle of the leash.

Is It Normal for a puppy to be Lethargic?

If you have a good explanation for your puppy to be tired, then that may be the case.

If you have taken a very long walk or had a large amount of exercise (especially in the heat), then your puppy may sleep for hours afterward. If your puppy has been at day care or a boarding kennel, they may be really excited and on alert most of the time there and then come home and just crash.

If there is no unusual activity or exertion that would cause your puppy to sleep more or be acting more tired than usual, then you may be dealing with lethargy and your puppy may need veterinary attention.

Just like humans, puppies need more sleep when they are very young . Young puppies are like babies and spend most of their time eating and sleeping. However, puppies are also relatively easy to rouse, and a difficult-to-wake puppy may mean something else is going on. For example, if you have difficulty waking your puppy, you may be dealing with a case of low blood sugar.

Senior dogs also need more time napping and get tired more easily after walks and playing. They also may not hear as well, so they might not wake up as easily when you come in. Once they are roused, though, they should be awake and ready to engage if they are truly just tired and not lethargic.

Causes why Dogs would be Lethargic?

Causes of lethargy in dogs can vary by age. Here are some of the most probable causes of lethargy in dogs at each life stage.

Dogs of All Ages

Dogs of any age can become lethargic with any sickness, such as an infection or injury. Low thyroid levels can cause of lethargy in dogs.

Recognizing that your dog is lethargic early on and getting your dog treated by the vet before their symptoms get worse can really make a difference. This can help your dog get back to normal as soon as possible.


Young puppies can suffer from hypoglycemia (low blood sugar), which can cause profound lethargy. This is most common in pups less than 4 months of age and in toy breeds. Their livers do not have the reserves to increase blood sugar, especially if they aren’t eating well.

Sometimes they don’t eat well if they are adjusting to their new home or if they have eaten something that they shouldn’t, which throws off their normal appetite.

Senior Dogs

Senior dogs are more often affected by arthritis and other joint conditions that cause pain. Dogs tend to hide their pain until they can’t take it any longer, so if your dog is not eager to get up and do the things they normally do, you should really pay attention to this and get them some help.

Seniors are also more prone to having internal problems with their organs, such as tumors or heart problems. This causes a real lack of energy that may be the first symptom you see.

When Should You Call a Vet About Lethargy in Your Dog?

If you are concerned that your dog is truly lethargic and not acting like they usually do, it is never the wrong thing to call your vet to get them checked out sooner rather than later.

Take your dog to the veterinarian immediately if they are lethargic and have any of the following symptoms, which are signs of an emergency:

Pale gum color (can indicate internal bleeding and can lead to life-threatening anemia)
Distended abdomen (can be a sign of bloat or other abdominal emergencies)
Labored breathing or blue or purple tongue color (often due to heart or lung problems that need urgent medical attention)

Dogs With Other Symptoms

If your dog is lethargic, they may also have other symptoms. Here are some common symptoms you might see alongside lethargy and what these combinations mean.


If your dog is lethargic and shaking, it is most commonly a sign of pain. You may not know where the pain is, but it’s a sign that your dog is in distress and is not feeling well. Sometimes the dog isn’t sure what is going on either and is trying to move as little as possible so they don’t hurt as much.

It could be spinal pain caused by an inflamed disc or another neurologic issue. Soft tissue injury or gastrointestinal pain often cause lethargy and shaking as well. These symptoms can also be signs of a fever.

Not Eating

This is also a nonspecific symptom, but not eating combined with lethargy means that the dog is bothered so much by their medical issue that they don’t want to eat and don’t have energy to be themselves. This should not be ignored for more than 24 hours.

Labored Breathing

Labored breathing is often a very serious symptom that needs to be recognized early. There is a difference between panting and labored breathing. With labored breathing, you will see your dog moving their belly muscles up and down rapidly and with force.

Labored breathing can be caused by several conditions that all need to be treated as soon as possible by a veterinarian:

Heart failure


Fluid in the lungs or abdomen

Laryngeal paralysis (serious problem with the larynx)

Severe pain

Airway blockages

Drooling or Vomiting

If your dog is lethargic and drooling, it could mean they are nauseous or have ingested a toxin. It is important to check their environment to see if there is anything they could have gotten into. Drooling can progress to vomiting, which can have many causes.

Dogs can have an upset stomach if they eat something too rich for them (which can lead to serious pancreatitis) or swallow an object that gets stuck. If a dog is so nauseous that they are acting listless and uncomfortable, they definitely need to be seen by a veterinarian.

How Do Vets Treat Lethargic Dogs?

Your veterinarian will first perform a physical exam and check your dog’s gum color, hydration status, vitals with the heart and lungs, abdominal palpation, and spine and joint palpation.

Once they find where the problem may be coming from, they will recommend diagnostic tests, usually starting with bloodwork and x-rays. These tests will help the vet do a thorough check of all body systems and determine if there is something serious going on with your dog’s internal organs.

Sometimes the benefit of the tests is to rule out certain diseases or problems, and this is very valuable information. Just like human physicians, veterinarians cannot always determine an answer for every patient, but they know what to look for and how to make your dog as comfortable as possible.

They will offer specific treatments such as pain medicine, fluids if your dog is dehydrated, antibiotics if there’s an infection, or anti-nausea medicine if your dog is vomiting. It is always in your dog’s best interest to seek treatment early and not wait until they are severely ill and it becomes an emergency situation.

Bringing Puppy Home

Bringing Puppy Home

So you’ve decided to add a puppy to your family? Congratulations! Taking care of a puppy is an adventure from the very first second, with cute overload highs and frustrating “not again on the carpet!” lows. To help you prepare for bringing your puppy home, we’ve got advice to ease the transition, from puppy-proofing tactics to knowing when to call the vet.

Preparing for Your New Puppy

Before your puppy arrives there are a few arrangements to be made and rules to decide on, those include:

Buying the right supplies. You will need a crate and/or bed for your new puppy to stay in. Food and water bowls are a must. Healthy and complete puppy food is important, and your vet can help you decide the right food for your breed. A collar, tag, harness, and leash are important for taking them on walks, however, you may need a harness as you train your puppy. A car restraint is important for their safety if you’ll be traveling often. Puppy pads are helpful for house training, and poo bags are needed for outside.

1) Dog Food. To prevent tummy upsets, start by feeding your new dog the brand they were eating prior to coming to your home. Then, you can gradually transition to another dog food, depending on your veterinarian’s advice and your dog’s own preferences. (Not sure what food your new dog needs? Learn more about the ages and stages of dog food.)

2) Food and Water Bowls. The best dog food and water bowls are both useful and lovely to look at.
Collar. A collar is an essential piece of safety equipment for all dogs. It’s where you’ll display their ID tag with their name and contact information, in case they get lost, as well as any health tags required by the city or county where you live.

3) Leash. For outdoor walks with your pup, these are a necessity. Start with a standard 6-foot leash, which will keep your dog close and safe while you learn more about their outdoor behavior.

4) Poop Bags. Leaving your dog’s waste on the ground isn’t just rude; it’s a public health hazard. Don’t be that guy.

5) Dog Treats. Whether you’re training your dog to sit or just showing them a little love, say it with a dog treat.

6) Dog Bed. A cozy place to sleep will help get your new pet settled in your home.

7) Toys. All dogs need toys for mental and physical exercise, whether it’s chewing, chasing or snuggling.

8) Nail Trimmers. Clippers can keep your pet’s nails comfortably short and safe.

9) Dog Crate. A crate can be a space your new puppy can call their own—and is necessary for crate training.

10) Potty Pads. A house training essential, potty pads can save your floors and give your pet a place to do their business indoors.

11) Chew Toys. Give your puppy an appropriate outlet for their natural chewing instinct with plenty of chew toys.

12) Puzzle and Treat-Dispensing Toys. Mentally stimulating toys that make your puppy work for a payoff can help keep them occupied (and out of trouble).

13) Training Treats. Bite-sized, low-calorie treats are made specifically for training situations, so you can reward your dog’s progress as much as you want. One Ingredient Puppy Treats are best.

14) Dog Clicker. This common training tool makes a unique sound that lets dogs know when they’ve done something right.

15) Dental Products. A toothbrush and toothpaste made especially for puppies can help them get used to having their teeth cleaned and prevent dental disease.

16) Puppy Shampoo. Select a shampoo made just for puppies to give your new dog a gentle scrub.

17) Stain and Odor Remover. Accidents will happen. But happily, enzymatic cleaners are made just for puppy messes.

18) Calming Aids. Ease the transition to your home with products like supplements, apparel that provides constant pressure, a calming dog collar or sprays infused with anxiety-settling pheromones.

Puppy-proof your house. Decide where your puppy will be sleeping. Crate training is a popular method to make them feel like they have a safe, quiet place to rest. Choose your puppy’s eating place. Make sure their food is out of their reach. If there are certain parts of your home you don’t want your puppy in, then baby gates can help set boundaries. Check your home for potential puppy hazards like poisonous plants, cleaning products, cables, or other things they might chew on that they shouldn’t.

Find a veterinarian and trainer. Putting your puppy on a routine and early training can create a well-behaved dog. It’s important to get them checked out and up-to-date on their vaccinations as early as possible. Finding the right vet for you and your puppy will make these trips easier.

The Big Day

Once you’ve picked up your new puppy and are bringing them home, you’ll want to set them up for success. Making it through the first night can be the toughest part. However, the joys they will bring you will far outweigh the struggles in the beginning.

Starting a routine and sticking to it will help your puppy have a successful transition. Here are tips for surviving the first 24 hours:

Introduce them to their family. Let your puppy explore designated areas until they’re familiar with the house. Introduce family members one a time, to avoid overwhelming your puppy. Let them know where they should potty, and reward them when they go. Introduce them to other animals in your house slowly to avoid aggression or irritation. Avoid other dogs outside until your puppy has all of their vaccinations. Note that this could take a few months.

Start enforcing rules. Teaching your puppy the house rules from the beginning will help them understand the boundaries. You will need to decide where they will sleep, if they’re allowed on furniture, or if they can have table scraps. Sticking to a schedule for mealtime, potty breaks, playtime, and nap time will help your puppy feel secure and confident. Puppies need plenty of sleep, and giving them a safe place to rest will help them.

Surviving the first night. For many, the first night is the toughest. Some puppies may cry for the first few nights. If you’re crate training, you may want to take them out and console them. However, letting them cry in their crate will help them understand the rules. You can put their crate in your bedroom so they know you’re close by. Some puppies may not be able to hold their bladder through the night. You can solve this by taking them on a potty break before and after bedtime.

Building strong bonds. Positive reinforcement, plenty of affection from the family, and consistent rules and routine will help your puppy adapt to their new “pack.” Scolding, yelling, or even hitting will not create a good relationship with your new puppy. Maintaining positive mannerisms even when they have done something wrong will be better for you and your puppy.

Starting on the Right Paw

After bringing home your new puppy, the real fun begins. Sticking to a consistent schedule and training them will help the two of you bond. From potty training to learning new tricks, using positive reinforcement will help them learn. Enrolling them in classes or programs can ensure good behavior later on.

Socializing your puppy when they’re young and after they’ve been fully vaccinated helps their behavioral development. Their experiences as a puppy will shape how they act when they get older. Creating positive encounters will help them be a friendly dog.

It’s also important to get your puppy on a flea and worm treatment. It’s common for puppies to have worms, however, they can be easily treated by medication prescribed from the vet. Necessary vaccinations will also protect them from infectious diseases.

Be vigilant about your puppy’s health. Make sure they have regular vet appointments and checkups. Monitor their health at home, and take note of any concerning behavior. Learn the health risks of your specific breed and take steps to recognize the onset of any diseases or conditions. Your puppy relies on you for their well-being. In return, your healthy puppy will provide joy to you and your family.

Is Chocolate Safe For Dogs

Is Chocolate Safe For Dogs?

Dogs often want our food, but not all human food is safe for dog consumption – especially chocolate. Suppose you are eating chocolate sitting on the couch, and your pup is expecting a small part of the chocolate as a treat. As a dog-parent, you might be wondering to know the answer for “can dogs have chocolates? Then this article may be beneficial for you and your canine.

If you ask a dog owner what food they never feed their dogs, chocolate would be the answer. Chocolate is not suitable for your dog and has many reasons behind it.

But it’s not like that always, as people say! It depends upon the quantity of chocolates at a time and the dog’s weight. There are examples where dogs are just cool after eating chocolate, and their owner didn’t notice anything weird in their pal’s behavior.

Then what should you do? What is the answer for ‘can dogs have chocolate?’

Before getting straight to the answer, we will describe the rationale behind the chocolate eating habits of dogs.

Components that are bad in chocolates are theobromine and caffeine. Because of these two components, chocolates become a terrible thing for your dog. You might be a big fan of chocolates, but a dog’s digestion system is not suitable for it. The slowness with which animals absorb methylxanthines, particularly theobromine, is part of what makes them so deadly.

These things slow down the process of digestion of your dog. It takes almost 17 hours to digest chocolate molecules properly. So, can dogs have chocolate? No!

The concentration of Theo-bromine and Caffeine vary from product to product. You may find some chocolates contain more caffeine than other brands. The more caffeine and theobromine present in chocolate, the more difficult it is to digest! Hence, the darker the chocolate, the more toxic it is for dogs.

Side effects of chocolate

Can dogs have chocolate? In short, no. But if your pup consumes some accidentally, you might notice some common problems that may occur after having chocolates; those are

Your dog may have a breathing problem.
Abnormal heartbeat.
Urinating frequently.
Skin irritation

These are the symptoms you may notice if your furry pal goes through difficulties. You may find several examples on the internet of dogs who died after having chocolates. Excessive amounts of methylxanthines are dangerous to your pal.

It is not only toxic but a life-threatening cause for older dogs, as older dogs often go through heart disease and breathing problems.
How much chocolate can kill a dog?

Chocolates can be deadly for dogs. The seriousness of chocolate poisoning depends upon its darkness and quantity. Baked chocolate and dark chocolates are rich in theobromine. If you are frantically googling ‘how much chocolate can kill a dog?’, you must know some facts. Per ounce, dark chocolate contains 56% of theobromine.

An ounce of milk chocolate contains 45% of caffeine. Caffeine is another toxin for your dog. It takes a lot of time to digest, hence causing problems like stomach ache and bloating.

However, consuming a little bit of chocolate is not fatal, but sugar and caffeine in it makes chocolate an unhealthy treat for your dog. Sometimes your dog may have pancreatitis after having a bite of chocolate.

A 50-pound dog can feel sick after having just 1 ounce of baker chocolate or fall ill after having 9 ounces of milk chocolate. This is an approximate idea to keep away serious issues.
Precautions to take if your dog eats chocolate

The first and foremost thing we would like you to do is call your veterinarian. And consult with him. According to his advice, take the precautions of the aftermath. It is always good to consult with your veterinarian in an emergency.

Depending on the quantity of chocolate your dog has consumed, your vet may induce vomiting. Usually, they give activated charcoal in these cases to bring out excessive toxins from the body. Sometimes they provide IV fluid to reduce the risk of chocolate poisoning.

If you find your veterinarian is not available, you can get help from the internet. There are many websites where you will have the option to consult with a Veterinarian online. Some websites are there to help you when you need to provide details of your dog’s age, weight, height and the chocolate that your dog has consumed.
Prevent your dog from eating Chocolates

Can dogs have chocolate? It is always suggested not to feed your dog chocolate as a treat. Although giving a small bite of milk chocolate to a big dog will not cause anything wrong.

However, you are suggested to keep chocolate far away from your pal so that it will not eat chocolate on its own.

There are several ways to keep your dogs away from chocolates. Read these ideas that will save your dog from the risk of having chocolates.
Keep away chocolates from your dog

The simplest way to prevent any dangerous situation that may occur when your dog eats chocolates is to keep this creamy chocolate away from the reach of your dog.

Keep chocolates on a high shelf where your dog cannot reach, or you can keep chocolates in a closed-door kitchen.

On occasions like Christmas, Easter, New year, when you get so many chocolates as gifts, that time is very risky as you do not care about these presents. When you eat chocolates, you may throw chocolate wrappers into bins. Make sure you don’t keep those bins near your furry pal’s reach.
“Leave it” technique

This technique is advantageous to train your dog not to have random things. You may wonder while walking on the road; your dog always tries to eat whatever comes in front. It happens with everybody.

Train your dog “Leave it” technique. It is effortless to teach. And your dog will have the memory. In this technique, you need to command “leave it” when you see your dog trying to eat something randomly on the road or even on the floor.

Once you train this technique in your dog, it will remember for the future, so in this way, your dog can avoid the dire consequences of having chocolate.
Can dogs have chocolate ice cream?

If you have this question in your mind, then the answer is, no. It is simple. Chocolate ice cream is made of chocolate even though they are not very high in caffeine and theobromine. So, chocolate ice cream is not all suitable for dogs. Ice creams also have added sugar and fat, which are unhealthy for dogs. Ice creams contain a large amount of cream and milk. As most of the dogs are generally lactose intolerant, ice creams as treats are not good for them. So, if you still have the question, ‘can dogs have chocolate ice cream’, the simple answer is, no.

And it takes so many procedures to prepare chocolate ice cream. The whole process makes it a complex food that is not easy to digest. Your furry pal may not be habituated with this kind of complex food.
Can dogs have chocolate rich in cocoa?

No! This is the absolute answer for those who have the above question. As we discussed already, chocolate is not a great treat for your dog. The more the cocoa content, the darker the chocolate is. Dark chocolate is more dangerous because it has more theobromine in it.

Humans can quickly metabolize theobromine but not dogs! It slows down their metabolism and leads to many diseases.

A small amount of chocolate is good, but too many doses may cause fatal issues to your dog.

Always consult a veterinarian and feed your dog anything you want.

allergies dogs

Treating Spring Allergies In Pets

Spring Allergy Symptoms

Is your canine been itching, scratching, biting, or licking itself more usual than normal? Have these signs been extra apparent since hotter climate is taking place? Do you see any irregular indicators associated to your canines’ ears or eyes? Like people, canines can develop pollen allergic reactions and so they can present signs any time of the yr. Spring, summer season, and fall are normally the time of yr when pollen allergic reactions trigger most discomfort to allergic pets.

1. Scratching

While still outside or after coming indoors, do you discover your canine scratching and itching themselves? A light, persistent itch or livid scratching can each be indicators of an allergy (together with a pollen allergy) attributable to elevated exposure from being outside. Itchiness is without doubt one of the widespread preliminary signs seen in allergic canines.

2. Hives

When uncovered to allergens, folks escape in rashes and hives. This could occur to canines too. Hives can develop anyplace on the pores and skin, although it’s simpler to see them on sparsely haired areas such because the stomach and armpits. Hives are additionally generally seen on the top, face, or sides of the legs. Canines might have on and off growth of bumps (or raised tufts of hair in a number of places on the physique), based mostly on publicity to pollen or different allergens. Some canines with hives might even have persistent raised bumps for a number of days, even weeks!

3. Extreme Licking

The stomach, paws, and personal elements (across the anus) are areas that canines might lick excessively after they really feel itchiness in these areas. Relating to extreme or obsessive licking in canines, the most probably trigger is allergic reactions. As talked about above, itchiness is the preliminary signal of allergic reactions. Licking is definitely an indication of extreme itchiness in canines.

4. Puffy Eyes

Red, puffy eyes are a typical symptom of allergic reactions in people. Whereas canines are usually not as usually affected by these signs, some canines may even exhibit these indicators. Hair loss across the eyes is one other symptom to look at for. One or each eyes could also be affected. 

5. Eye Discharge

Watery eye discharge is a potential symptom of environmental allergic reactions in canines. This signal would be the solely signal associated to eyes or could also be seen together with eye puffiness or redness. Typically the discharge might turn mucous (pus like) and have a unexpected or yellow color to it.

6. Face Rubbing

Should you discover your canine rubbing their face up against surfaces such as the carpet, couches, or pillows, this can be a clear present of their attempt to alleviate the itchiness. You guessed it, face rubbing can also be a type of itchiness in canines. Some canines will attempt to rub their whole physique throughout certainly one of these surfaces. Scooting is one other signal of itchiness associated to rubbing of a physique half to alleviate their itch.

7. Hair Loss

As allergic reactions progress or persist, the scratching and irritation of pores and skin results in trauma of hair follicles. This results in hair loss. Some canines might even nibble and chew at their pores and skin inflicting hair loss. That is usually seen on the stomach, legs, and tail area. Some canines might usually have much less hair on the body because of environmental allergic reactions and related pores and skin irritation.

8. Pink, Smelly Ears

Allergens equivalent to pollen not only affect the pores and skin but in addition trigger irritation in canine ears. This could result in pink, irritated ears that will change into contaminated. This may result in smelly, smelly ears which are clearly pink and infected. Some canines might solely have mild discomfort and will not present the dramatic signal of reddened, smelly ears. As a substitute they could exhibit milder head shaking initially.

9. Head Shaking

Canines might shake their head due to the irritation of their ears and will not need you to pet them on their head. Head shaking generally is a signal of itchiness within the ears, or an indication of discomfort attributable to swollen ears, an ear an infection, and so forth.

10. Red, Irritated Pores and skin

The pores and skin across the mouth, chin, paws, neck, and belly sometimes turns into pink, inflamed, and itchy in canines affected by pollen allergic reactions, or attributable to different allergens within the surroundings.

11. Hot Spots

Additionally referred to as moist eczema, hot spots happen usually attributable to extreme moisture in a local part of the skin. Generally seen in areas with moist hair from biting at themselves in areas equivalent to the sides of the body or tail base, some breeds such as Labradors are extra susceptible to hot spots. Scorching spots can be fairly discomforting for the pet, and are sometimes contaminated too.

12. Sneezing

Should you see your canine sneezing greater than normal, this generally is a signal of pollen allergic reactions. Reverse sneezing is one other signal of pollen allergic reactions, and could also be seen throughout their out of doors exercise, or throughout indoor time.

13. Sensitive Pores and skin

Canines can usually develop delicate pores and skin that twitches or crawls upon touching it. As allergic reactions trigger discomfort and irritation of the pores and skin as the first signal, some hardy canines might not present many different indicators however will exhibit crawling of the pores and skin when petted on their back. Some canines might love back scratches almost too much! Whereas we can blame a canine for loving consideration and desirous to get pets and scratches, in case your canine reveals the above signs along with an elevated interest in being scratched, allergic reactions needs to be thought of.

Should you discover your canine any of those signs or a mixture of the above signs, make sure to go to your vet and have them checked out. If indicators solely happen throughout the spring and summer season, pollen allergic reactions are possible the issue. In case your canine reveals these signs year-round, or at different occasions of the yr, this doesn’t rule out pollen allergy. Fairly, a mixture of a number of allergic reactions could also be affecting your pet with non-seasonal pores and skin or ear issues.

These indicators are the overall indicators of allergic reactions in canines, thus most environmental allergic reactions can result in these signs. To assist diagnose the precise explanation for your pets’ allergic reactions, a veterinary dermatologist analysis could also be wanted.


Keeping your pets safe during Easter

Keeping your pets safe during Easter!

Delicious chocolate:

Keeping your pets safe during Easter: Delicious chocolate eggs and also various other delicious chocolate deals with are preferred Easter deals with. Delicious chocolate is likewise an usual reward made use of to place in the plastic eggs for Easter egg pursues. If the Easter egg search remains in a location where your pet is, it’s most likely your pet will certainly locate the delicious chocolate inside the eggs prior to your youngsters do.
While delicious chocolate is poisonous to both pet cats and also pet dogs, it’s even more of a threat to pet dogs since pet cat aren’t attracted to sugary foods like pet dogs are. Early indications of delicious chocolate poisoning are throwing up, looseness of the bowels, and also shivering. If you believe your family pet has actually consumed delicious chocolate, call your veterinarian immediately.
Ensure to maintain your pet dog far from any type of sweet or gum tissue also. A great deal of sweets consist of xylitol, a sweetening agent, which is extremely poisonous to family pets.


Lilies are most likely one of the most unsafe and also serious plants to pet cats, if consumed. Also consuming simply 1-2 flowers or obtaining a few of the lily plant pollen on their nose can trigger kidney failing. They can likewise possibly be poisonous to pets, so it’s ideal to stay clear of obtaining lilies completely if you have family pets or to see to it any type of lilies you earn are totally unreachable of all family pets.
Sorts of lilies that are one of the most harmful to pet cats consist of Asiatic, Easter, Japanese Program, rubrum, stargazer, red, tiger, wester, timber as well as day lilies. On top of that, daffodils are additionally hazardous to pet cats.
One of the most typical indications of plant poisoning in animals are throwing up and also sleepiness. If you have any type of uncertainty that your pet cat or pet has actually consumed any kind of part of a lily bring your animal and also the plant to your vet right away. If left unattended, it can result in kidney failing, which can cause fatality.

Plastic Easter Yard:

Vivid, artificial turf is generally made use of as attractive filler when masterfully crafting Easter baskets. Easter turf, like Xmas tinsel, can present an extremely significant danger to your pet dogs. The plastic hairs can be really attracting to pet dogs, specifically pet cats due to the fact that they are attracted to having fun with hairs. These hairs can really obtain twisted around the base of your pet dog’s tongue, which can create injury. If ingested, the Easter lawn can bunch up in your animal’s gastrointestinal system given that it can not be absorbed. If this occurs, it can trigger digestive tract obstructions, which can call for surgical procedure to eliminate. For a much safer as well as a lot more Environmentally friendly choice, take into consideration switching over out the plastic Easter lawn with paper Easter turf.

spay neuter

Best time to Spay or Neuter My Labradoodle?

Correct Age to Spay or Neuter a Labradoodle?

So, you’ve merely arrived dwelling collectively together with your beautiful new Labradoodle and likewise you’re utterly enamored. All you could do is cuddle and squeeze them, and spend really day-to-day locked within the house participating in with them – endlessly…

Nevertheless, there’s a extreme side to the first few months of proudly proudly owning a Labradoodle. Vet visits, injections and effectively being checks are all too often inside the early phases and, following all that, the final word decision it is a should to make is whether or not or not or to not have your Labradoodle spayed or neutered.

It’s a major decision – we get that – so proper right here’s all it’s advisable to find out about what you could be considering and what’s biggest to your Labradoodle.

Spayed or Neutered?

Everyone assumes you’ll know which is which nonetheless, to be reliable, we nonetheless get confused which is which, so don’t panic. Proper right here’s the basics:

Spaying is when a female canine’s uterus and ovaries are eradicated. The method usually consists of decreasing a small incision inside the abdomen.

Neutering, subsequently, is the surgical elimination of a male canine’s testes (adequate talked about…).

When Should I Have My Labradoodle Spayed or Neutered?

Whereas options fluctuate, vets often suggest that it is best to have your Labradoodle spayed or neutered between the ages of 4 and 9 months. There are quite a few causes for such a broad time-frame, although some vets suggest that timing can have constructive leads to your Labradoodle’s conduct, relying on their intercourse.

Although there is no 100% specific reply, it is often suggested that it is best to have your male Labradoodle neutered after he has reached the age of puberty. That’s thought to have long-term effectively being benefits, along with serving to to forestall behavioral traits, much like marking and aggression.

For female Labradoodle’s, there is no lifeless set reply as to when it is best to have them spayed. Whereas some advocate spaying sooner than first heat (as youthful as 5 months), others suggest that this will improve the prospect of mammary tumors. We’d always advocate consulting your vet for a customized opinion.

There are rumors that spaying or neutering changes the persona of your pet. Nonetheless, consultants have talked about that this is not the least bit true.

Why Should I Have My Labradoodle Spayed or Neutered?

There are many reason it is best to have your Labradoodle spayed or neutered, not least of all on account of it’s going to seemingly improve their top quality of life (and stop you from worrying just a few litter of puppies). Proper right here’s what it’s advisable to know:

Firstly, you’re going to have a contented and healthful Labradoodle. Spaying is confirmed to reduce the prospect of breast most cancers and uterine infections, and neutering equally prevents testicular most cancers. So, should you want to cease these predominant Labradoodle killers, neutering and spaying is a sure hearth means.

Neutering your male Labradoodle may even assure that he is on his biggest conduct all the time. Neutering prevents aggressive and territorial behaviors, and as well as signifies that he wont be spending his entire stroll on the lookout for a confederate. So, should you want to cease these embarrassments, get your Labradoodle neutered early on!

Remember…The method should not be painful. Successfully, it’s no worse than one other surgical process, and it’s carried out beneath regular anesthetic, so that they obtained actually really feel an element. Your Labradoodle grow to be fat and lazy. Just because they’re not ‘at it’ doesn’t suggest they’re going to pile on the kilos. With frequent canine walks and prepare, they’ll hold slim and trim. Don’t worry about age, the vet might be sure that your Labradoodle isn’t too youthful to be spayed or neutered. Female Labradoodles can reproduce as youthful as 4 months earlier, and male Labradoodles can as of six months.


Pooping in the House…Why do dogs do that?

My Canine is Pooping within the Home?

In case your canine retains pooping in the home, they could have a well being subject, or one thing may need modified of their routine, weight loss plan, or house setting that’s inflicting the accidents.

Step one is to rule out a medical motive, which entails making an appointment to see your veterinarian.
Intestinal Parasites

Any medical situation that results in irritation of your canine’s intestines or an elevated sense of urgency may end up in an accident in the home. One widespread reason behind gastrointestinal illness in canine is intestinal parasites (worms).

Canines might are available in contact with parasites within the yard, at canine parks, or from being in touch with different canine or cats. These parasitic worms create irritation within the gastrointestinal tract, leading to diarrhea, blood, and/or mucus within the stool.

Meals Allergy

Meals allergy symptoms or meals intolerance may trigger gastrointestinal upset in canine. Though meals allergy symptoms in canine are comparatively unusual, 10-15% of canine recognized with meals allergy symptoms present indicators of each pores and skin illness and gastrointestinal illness, usually within the type of free stool.

Frequent meals allergy symptoms for canine embody beef, dairy, rooster, wheat, and lamb. The intolerance or meals allergy might trigger your canine to poop extra typically, have delicate but shaped stools, and have extra fuel and abdomen noises.

Separation Nervousness

Separation nervousness has change into a extra widespread subject for some canine, particularly if there’s a change in how typically you might be at house with them. In case your canine is accustomed to you being house with them a lot of the day, after which your schedule adjustments and also you’re away for longer durations, this may be upsetting in your canine.

Canines with separation nervousness will usually begin to change into nervous or anxious as you prepare to depart the home (grabbing a coat or keys, placing in your footwear, and so on.). Your canine might begin participating in behaviors like damaging chewing, pacing, whining, or home soiling.

Phobia’s and Outside stressors in you Canine

Your canine could also be pooping inside as a result of one thing outdoor scares them or makes them anxious. Some canine have a extra nervous character, and loud sounds resembling autos passing by, canine barking, thunder, individuals shouting, or different loud noises can contribute to worry and nervousness.

Your canine may be troubled from doable predators, rain, individuals operating by, or wheeled objects like skateboards, suitcases, or bikes going by them. In case your canine is tense and fearful when exterior, they could not use the toilet till they’re again indoors.

Being Distracted

Some canine might defecate in the home as a result of they didn’t spend sufficient time exterior to go to the toilet. When canine go exterior, they often wish to sniff and discover their setting for brand spanking new sights, smells, or sounds. So in case your canine spends numerous time exploring as an alternative of urinating and defecating, they could not have had sufficient time to poop outdoor.

Modifications in Routine

Most canine get used to a schedule of consuming, going for walks, and even enjoying at sure instances. If there’s an abrupt change to this routine, your canine is probably not ready, and this will contribute to pooping in the home. With a newly house-trained pet, any new stressors or change of their every day routine may end up in setbacks.

Age-Associated Points relating to coaching

As your pet ages, their house-training expertise is probably not as sharp as they had been after they had been a pet. Older canine can begin to present delicate indicators of canine cognitive dysfunction or delicate canine dementia, the place they begin to overlook sure realized behaviors. Frequent indicators seen embody pacing, wandering, elevated anxiousness, and extra episodes of house-soiling.

One other age-related issue is arthritis. An older canine with indicators of hip or knee ache might have extra issue entering into the place to defecate, so they could have bother going within the applicable place.

How can I  change my canine Eating regimen slowly?

Sudden adjustments in your canine’s weight loss plan can result in gastrointestinal upset. Whether or not it’s since you purchased a brand new model of meals or treats or in case your canine obtained into the trash can, a canine’s intestinal tract doesn’t deal with this type of abrupt change effectively. The change in weight loss plan could cause a large shift within the microflora biome (good and dangerous micro organism) that make up your canine’s intestinal tract. This imbalance could cause free stools, resulting in accidents in the home.

Methods to Cease a Canine/Pet From Pooping in your house?

Irrespective of the underlying reason behind your canine’s inappropriate defecation in the home, punishment just isn’t going to resolve the difficulty. Don’t yell at your canine or rub your canine’s nostril in it, as this isn’t an efficient technique.

Listed below are some suggestions for the way to cease your canine from pooping inside. Seek the advice of along with your veterinarian if these methods don’t assist in resolving the difficulty.

Methods to handle Underlying Well being Situations?

You will need to schedule an appointment along with your veterinarian to search out any doable medical situations.

Intestinal parasites will be recognized with fecal testing and simply handled with de-worming drugs. Additionally, in case your pet is at greater danger of publicity to intestinal parasites, it’s important to maintain them on month-to-month prevention as a type of safety.

For meals allergy symptoms, your veterinarian might suggest a prescription weight loss plan resembling a hydrolyzed protein or novel protein weight loss plan to see in case your pet will tolerate the meals higher.

Ask your vet about including a every day probiotic to your pet’s meals, resembling Purina Fortiflora or Nutramax Proviable to assist promote a balanced intestinal microbiome.

Serving to Your Canine’s Nervousness or Separation Nervousness

Serving to your pet with anxiety-related points typically entails some type of conduct modification or desensitization.

For separation nervousness, canine need to be retrained over time to see being left alone for sure durations as a optimistic factor. Ask your vet about skilled trainers or vet behaviorists that may assist along with your pet’s particular subject.

Age-Associated Points

In case your pet is beginning to present indicators of delicate dementia or cognitive dysfunction, schedule a checkup along with your veterinarian. There are drugs and particular diets for senior pets to assist them navigate this new stage of their life.

Your veterinarian may study your canine for any indicators of ache or discomfort related to arthritis and will suggest joint dietary supplements or ache drugs.

Conserving Your Canine on routine Throughout Potty Time

In case your canine appears to get distracted from the mission of going to the toilet, you possibly can assist them keep on observe.

As an example, in case your pet has been indoors all day, as an alternative of enjoying with them once you first come house, instantly allow them to out within the yard or begin the stroll. As soon as they’ve urinated and defecated, give your canine reward and/or a deal with to bolster the aim of being exterior. Then you possibly can interact in play along with your canine.

Altering Canine’s Eating regimen Step by step

Any time you alter your canine’s model of meals, and even the kind of meals throughout the similar model, it is very important step by step transition to the brand new meals over not less than per week.

Begin by giving 25% of the brand new meals with 75% of the previous meals for 2 days, then a 50:50 combination for subsequent two days, after which 75% new meals to 25% previous meals till totally transitioned to the brand new meals.

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Puppies Growth

Everyone loves cute puppies – young and old alike. Puppies are cute and totally adorable, exactly the same words we use when describing babies! Puppies are incredibly similar to babies!

  • They are part of our family
  • We agonize over the names we give to our puppies
  • A puppies health is of prime concern and just as with babies we ensure that they are vaccinated against disease
  • Puppies whine when they are hungry, thirsty, hot, cold, uncomfortable, distressed or lonely
  • They require considerable attention
  • We feed them special food for puppies
  • We provide them with toys for puppies
  • We ensure they have their own bed, and their own space within the home
  • We have to teach them acceptable behavior and social skills
  • We even teach puppies our language!
  • And as they get older we often send them to puppy schools!
  • We worry about them if they become sick
  • Puppies in their turn look on as as their surrogate mother, litter companions and the leader of their pack (or family)

Once we understand the role of puppies within our family their particular requirements become incredibly clear – as does the role we are expected to play in their lives!

When will my puppy stop growing?

Physical maturity is reached at different ages, depending largely on the size of your dog. Little dogs stop growing much sooner than big dogs.

The chart below will give you an idea of what I mean. The squares that are left blank indicate that the dog has stopped growing by that point.


The chart above will also give you an idea of what you might expect your puppy to weigh at different stages in his development.

Again, this is closely linked to the size of the breed he belongs to.

But if this is just a rough guide, how will you know for sure if your puppy is underweight or overweight, or just right?

And what exactly do I mean by Toy, Small, Medium, Large and Giant. Let’s look at the size categories first.  I’ve picked examples of a well known breed in each category to give you an idea.

Toy dogs

The example given here is based on the growth rate of a Toy Poodle.

Dogs of this kind of size and weight typically stop growing somewhere between 6 and 8 months of age, but the vast majority of their growth is complete by around six months of age.

Small and medium dogs

The example given of a small dog is based on a Miniature Schnauzer. The medium dog is an English Springer Spaniel.

Bear in mind that Springers come in a wide range of sizes, from very small working bred dogs to the larger chunkier show type.

We’ve picked a moderately sized Springer for the purposes of this illustration.

Small to medium sized dogs tend to have completed their growth by around the end of the first year, with close to their adult height reached by around nine months.

Again, this is not set in stone. Just a rough guide.

Large Dogs

In this example the growth rate of the large dog is based on the growth rate of a moderate sized German Shepherd Dog.

Most larger breeds will finally complete their growth somewhere between 18 and 24 months, though they may be close to their adult height by their first birthday.

Giant Dogs

Our Giant Dog is a Great Dane. Some giant breeds reach even greater weights than this and grow for even longer.

Some giant breeds will continue growing for up to three years.

Again, these are general guidelines. But the general rule is this: the larger the dog, the longer he grows for.

Breed size is not the only factor influencing growth. Gender has a role to play too.

Differences between male and female puppies

Our graphs and charts show an average dog. Male dogs are usually a little heavier and larger than female dogs of the same age and breed.

So females may be lighter than our chart suggests, and males may be heavier.

These differences can be quite substantial in adult dogs from the larger breeds, but are less noticeable in smaller breeds and in very young puppies.

Piling on the pounds?

Remember also that some dogs will carry on growing for a little longer than the guidelines above.

But if a dog is still piling on the pounds long past the point where other dogs of his size has stopped growing, you need to ask yourself some questions, such as “am I overfeeding my dog” and maybe get him a check up with your vet.

While gender may affect your dog’s final size, there is nothing you can do about it.

There are quite a few factors though that can affect how fast your puppy will grow or long your puppy will grow for, which are at least partly within your control. They include:

  • Neutering
  • Diet
  • General health

How neutering affects growth

Neutering affects the final size of your dog because your dog’s sex hormones are involved in telling your dog’s body to ‘stop growing’.

A dog neutered before he stops growing, may carry on growing for longer because he lacks the sex hormones to switch off that growth. So a neutered dog may end up taller than his entire brothers or sisters.

This continuation of growth is not to the dog’s advantage and may predispose the dog to joint problems. Several quite large recent studies have shown that neutered dogs are more likely to suffer from cruciate ligament tears and from hip dysplasia.

You can find out more about this in my articles on neutering.

Weight gain?

Many experts believe that neutering may also impact on your dog’s appetite, though not everyone agrees on this.

I found my own male dog required less food after neutering, but that my female dogs did not seem to be affected. But I have only neutered a few of my dogs so it isn’t a good sample.

In any case neutering should not affect your dog’s body weight in any way provided that you adjust how much food you give him according to how he looks and feels. (More on that in a minute).

Feeding and growth

Despite the fact that the impact of neutering is not relevant if you adjust your dog’s food intake accordingly, many people really struggle with this.

Which brings us to the role of diet in your puppy’s growth and development.

Underfeeding puppies

Not many puppies are underfed these days, but it does happen. More often, puppies are malnourished because people are feeding them inappropriately, rather than simply not feeding them enough.

Sometimes this is a cultural thing. For example, in some societies people eating vegetarian diets for religious reasons are reluctant to feed their dogs any form of meat.

This can lead to puppies being fed an inappropriate diet of vegetables and grains. Poor growth and other health problems are likely if puppies are not fed a balanced diet suitable for a carnivore.

We tend to think of malnutrition as being feeding the wrong things or starving a puppy, but overfeeding is a form of malnutrition too.

Speeding up your puppy’s growth rate

Sometimes people ask me if it is possible to speed up their puppy’s growth rate or make him grow bigger.

The answer is yes, it is, but it is not necessarily a good thing.

An underfed puppy may benefit from overfeeding for a while, though this needs to be done with care if you want to avoid digestive problems.

But a healthy puppy that is fed more than he needs will simply get fat.


This is your window into the world of puppy growth and development. We begin on the day your puppy is born.

Week 1

Your puppy is born fully furred but with his eyes and ears closed so he cannot hear or see. His front feet are strong and he can pull himself towards his mother with them.

He can cry if he is uncomfortable and his mother will respond to his cries by moving him towards her and licking him.

Your puppy spends most of his time sleeping or suckling. If orphaned he’ll need feeding by hand every two hours!

He cannot regulate his own body temperature and needs his mother for heat, or an artificial heat source.

If he is going to be docked, this procedure will take place in the first two to three days. In the first week to ten days of his life your puppy grows rapidly and will double his birth weight.

Week 2

During this week, your puppy’s eyes will start to open. He probably can’t see very much yet. His forelegs are getting much stronger. He’ll continue to grow rapidly, adding 5-10% of his body weight.

The puppies’ mother is constantly attentive, only leaving her babies to eat or for toilet purposes.

She licks the puppies bottoms to stimulate a bowel or bladder movement and eats the result. There is no cleaning up to do yet.

The breeder will begin to handle the puppies more though, and get them used to human contact. She will worm the puppies for the first time at the end of this week.

Week 3

During this week a lot happens. Puppies begin to get their personalities.

Your puppy can stand and sit up by the end of the week. Tails can be wagged, ears will be completely open and puppies start play growling and interacting with their litter mates.

Your puppy can regulate his body temperature more effectively and will start to cut his first teeth in preparation for weaning.

The front teeth, canines and incisors are cut first. Toward the end of the week he may have his first tiny taste of puppy food.

Week 4

This is the week that puppies become really active and strong on their legs, and play actively with one another. They also start to move away from the sleeping area to empty their bowels and bladder. They may try to climb out of the whelping box.

The puppies’ mother will start to spend more time relaxing away from the puppies. She will gradually stop cleaning up after the pups, that is now the breeder’s problem!

If she lives indoors, she may rejoin the family for more of each day.

Your puppy will cut his back teeth and the breeder will get weaning underway this week and by the end of it, your puppy will be getting quite a bit of his nourishment from puppy food. She will also worm the puppies a second time.

If the mother is allowed near the puppies after she has been fed, she may regurgitate her dinner for them. This is completely natural and normal.

Week 5

Your puppy can now really run and play. He is a proper little dog. Rolling around with his brothers and sisters and playing with toys.

He can bark too and some puppies can be quite noisy at this age! He chases after his mother whenever she appears and suckles hungrily, but she is starting to get fed up with it, and may be reluctant to feed her brood for very long.

His mother is teaching him not to bite too hard. And his breeder is introducing him to lots of new experiences so that he won’t be afraid of them later.

If he lives in outdoor kennels he should spend part of each day indoors with the family.

Week 6

By the end of this week most puppies are fully weaned, and eating five or six little meals of puppy food each day.

Your puppy may still suckle from his mother, but he doesn’t need to.

From now on, a small breed puppy may gain around 5 ounces a week in weight, whereas a large breed puppy puts on a massive 21/2lbs.

Week 7

Some puppies go to their new homes towards the end of this week – many puppies show the beginnings of fearfulness at this point and will startle or jump at strange sounds an sights.

Socialization must begin in earnest. Your puppy’s mother continues to teach him bite inhibition when she visits him to play.

Week 8

This is normally the week when your puppy leaves his first home and joins his forever family.

He is now two months old and ready for his new life. From now on, we’ll be looking at your puppy’s development month by month, from three to eight months.

Month Three

From eight to twelve weeks is a very important period for puppies. It is the time during which they become fearful of anything unfamiliar and need to be thoroughly socialized.

It is also the time during which most puppies get to grips with house training, learning to wait before eliminating and start sleeping through the night without a potty break.

It is a busy time for new puppy owners. Your puppy will have his vaccinations during this month.

Biting can be a big problem during this stage and you need to be patient and consistent in order to teach the puppy not to hurt people when he plays.

Provided you use force free methods, this is a great time to get puppy training under way, and especially to teach a puppy recall, and to get your puppy used to working with food. You’ll be feeding him four times a day, and/or using much of his food in training

Handle your puppy all over, every day. If he is a long coated breed he will need regular grooming and although he won’t have much coat yet, now is the time to begin.

Month Four

Most puppies can drop down to three meals a day at twelve weeks old. This means slightly larger meals, so watch your puppy doesn’t get an upset tummy.

And at twelve weeks, if you take a small breed puppy’s weight in pounds, divide it by his age in weeks, and then multiply by the number of weeks in the year, you will have a rough idea what your puppy’s final weight as an adult will be.

So, for a 2.5lb puppy at twelve weeks the formula will be (2.5/12) X 52

Calculate the bit inside the brackets first. You can do the same calculation for medium pups at sixteen weeks and large breed pups at 20 weeks – just divide his weight by his age in weeks before you multiply by 52.

From twelve to sixteen weeks puppies start to lose that very young puppy ‘look’ and more closely resemble a miniature version of their adult selves. Medium to large pups will reach about half their adult height by the end of the month.

Puppies under four months don’t need formal walks, just lots of opportunity to play and run around in your garden or yard.

If the weather is warm you can get your puppy swimming now.

Most dogs swim instinctively, but don’t allow brachycephalic puppies to swim unsupervised – some are not able to swim at all.

You’ll enjoy training your puppy now as he is getting more attentive and can concentrate for longer. He should be able to come when he is called, in and around your home, provided there are not too many distractions.

He’ll probably understand sit, touch your hand on cue, and perhaps be able to sit in his basket for a few seconds when asked. It all depends on what you have taught him.

Month Five

Your puppy will start losing his baby teeth from around four months of age. He’ll probably have a more adult coat by the end of this month.

He may still be chewing a lot and biting too. Use frozen kongs to help him and give your furniture and fingers a break.

Puppies can go for short walks now. By the end of this month your puppy could have a twenty minute walk each day. He may also enjoy fetching a ball and playing with other dogs, but take care to stop before he gets very tired. And don’t walk brachycephalic puppies very far, or in warm weather.

This is the month during which some puppies start to become less dependent on their humans for security. Keep your puppy close to you outdoors by changing direction frequently so that you puppy has to keep coming to find you. And engaging him in games.

Reward your puppy generously for ‘checking in’ with you on walks. The foundations of a great recall are often build or spoilt during this month.

If your puppy knows how to sit or lie down at home, start some simple proofing exercises with him in public places. And start teaching him to ‘stay’ for short periods of time.

Month six

A healthy puppy can usually manage on two meals a day from around six months. During this month a Retriever, Spaniel or GSD puppy will reach around two thirds of his adult weight.

A Great Dane and other large breeds will have reached about half their final weight and little dogs will have almost completed their growth.

Some female dogs will come on heat for the first time during this month, or the next, so keep an eye open now for swelling of her vulva and any discharge.

Your dog will become increasingly confident over the next few months so practice, practice and practice that recall! Make it a habit he cannot break. And be generous with your rewards.

Month Seven

By the end of this month, your puppy will have all 42 of his adult teeth and be looking quite grown up. Small breed pups may now be more or less mature.

Your puppy will enjoy half hour off lead walks now, and should be able to walk on a loose lead for short periods with plenty of encouragement and rewards.

Keep practicing that recall! Teach your dog to recall away from all kinds of interesting things such as ‘other people’, other dogs, frisbees, etc.

Month Eight

Unless you have had your puppy neutered he now has plenty of sex hormones zooming around his system.

These help to slow his growth further and to build his confidence.

Make sure you practice good outdoor management on walks to maintain the good recall you have built and work hard on thoroughly proofing all his obedience skills.

Nine months and beyond

Many female dogs will be neutered once they have completed their first season. Read our information on neutering before you take this important step, for dogs of either sex.

Once your dog is a year old he can participate in more strenuous activities and sports.

Now is the time to think about the kinds of activities you would like to do with him – go jogging together for example – and if necessary, to start to get him fit.










Dog Licking your Face and what it means

Dog Licking your Face and what it means?

See if this sounds familiar: After going for a long walk with your dog and feeding her, you sit down to relax. She comes over, so you start petting her, but as soon as you do, the licking begins. You’re not a fan, but it isn’t a big deal at first… and then it progresses until she’s slobbering all over your face.This happens every single time you offer affection! Why? Dogs lick their pack members and themselves for many reasons, and if you want to curb the behavior, it helps to understand its cause.
We taste good

If your dog is licking their bowl, the floor after a spill, or the counter after you’ve been cooking, you might pretty easily come to the conclusion that they simply like the taste. But did you know that the same thing can be true when they’re licking us? Sometimes we have tiny food particles that they can taste, and beyond that, dogs enjoy the salt on our skin.


You might not think of your pup as particularly concerned with hygiene, but dogs often lick to clean themselves, just like cats. Pay close attention, though, because excessive anal cleaning can indicate that the glands need to be expressed.


Dog saliva has enzymes that kill off bacteria, and when a dog licks himself, it helps to get rid of dead tissue and clean dirt from wounds. Some dogs, however, just can’t stop themselves and may actually reopen wounds or cause other kinds of harm through excessive licking.


Dogs lick other dogs to tell them all sorts of things: everything from “I’m hungry” to “I submit to you” to “Let’s be friends.” They do this with people as well, but we’re typically not as good at interpreting the message. If your dog is licking you with intensity, take a look around and see if something is amiss. Maybe the water bowl is empty or the doggie door is closed. Chances are your dog needs something.


This is the most common reason that domestic dogs lick and tends to be the kind of licking most pet parents want to change. Licking for affection causes your dog to release pleasurable endorphin’s  that calm and comfort them, but sometimes it can just get to be too much for people. If you want your dog to stop, ignore them and walk into another room whenever it begins. Eventually they will learn that licking causes you to leave, which isn’t what they want.