Welcome To Labradoodles By Cucciolini
Just the thought of a “Labradoodle“, will cause incredible excitement as there is nothing more precious than watching Labradoodle Puppies with soft curly fur running to you for a wet kiss. Labradoodles are a joy in many households, they are allergy-friendly due to their hypoallergenic hair, and have an incredible and affectionate and dedicated love for there Family. Labradoodles have one of the best temperaments that you can find in any type of dog, whether it is a full breed or a cross. Labradoodles by Cucciolini, come in a wide variety of colors and textures including the Golden, Red, Cream, Apricot, Chocolate, Cafe, Chocolate Parti, Chocolate Phantom, Apricot Parti doodles. Labradoodles were created, in the 1980s in Victoria, Australia by Wally Conran of Royal Guide Dogs, who wanted a dog that was asthma-friendly with service dog capabilities. In fact, many professional Labradoodle breeders in Ontario are still modifying what the Labradoodle standards that are asthma-friendly and with service dog capabilities.
With the Covid-19 pandemic still present among us The health and safety of our Family, Customers, Dogs and Puppies is very important to us so we have implemented a number of measures to ensure we can operate safely during the Covid-19 pandemic.
For the time being the only visitors permitted to attend our premises are those collecting their puppy as we have implemented a strict non-contact procedure to make pickup safe.
We are continually monitoring the Covid-19 risk and guidelines in Canada and as always, we are doing our best to give you the best service as we aim to respond to your Calls, Emails and Text Messages.
Regarding Puppy Availability & Approval of Applications, we will do our best to approve ASAP. Once placed on our wait list we will pick the applications in order as they have been received. That being said, not all applicants our list when contact will still be interested in a puppy as they may have found a forever puppy elsewhere. For this reason we do not accept a deposit until I can place you on our guaranteed list, so customers can have the option to go elsewhere and find that forever Companion.
A deposit will be accepted only when we can Guarantee you a puppy from a litter that is confirmed. A deposit can be moved from one litter to another for one year from the the date is was received until you find YOUR PERFECT FUR BABY!!!!
COVID – 19 IS SO CRUEL!! PLEASE TAKE GOOD CARE OF YOURSELF & FAMILY, STAY SAFE…..PLEASE KINDLY REMEMBER TO WEAR A MASK WHEN GOING OUT AND WASH HANDS MANY TIMES WHEN OUT AND AGAIN ONCE YOU GET HOME! MAY GOD BLESS YOU ALL!!!!
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Do Labradoodles like to cuddle? Yes, for the most part; especially if they’re tired out from play. They are an extremely affectionate breed, love time with their people, and aim to please. … Labradoodles, with that teddy bear appearance, just look like they’d be cuddling machines.
One of the main reasons for the popularity of the Labradoodle is the type of coat that they have, which generally falls somewhere between that of the poodle and the Labrador, being curly and wavy while not as tightly curled as the pedigree poodle coat. The Labradoodle coat sheds hair at a much slower rate than that of most other breeds, which means that the dog is rather less likely to produce an allergic reaction in people who are often allergic to dog dander, making them a viable option even for some people that would otherwise probably not be able to own a dog at all. However, the fairly unique coat of the Labradoodle does mean that they need regular brushing, grooming and general care, and in this article, we will look at how to best groom and care for the coat of the Labradoodle in more detail. Read on to learn more. Working with the Labradoodle puppy coat Like most breeds and types of dog, the coat of the juvenile Labradoodle is rather different to the coat that they grow in when they are adult, and in between these stages is the transition phase while the puppy coat grows out, and the adult coat comes in. The Labradoodle will tend to retain their puppy coat up until the age of around one or two, and until their full adult coat comes in, you will need to brush and comb out your dog’s fur daily, to help to remove the shed fur that would otherwise become tangled up in the coat, or shed around the house.
Even adult Labradoodles with their full adult coat should ideally be brushed and groomed daily, and this process is not usually particularly onerous if you keep on top of it, and should take just a few minutes at a time. It is wise to begin getting your dog used to daily brushing while they are still young, so that they get comfortable with being brushed early on, and begin to see it as an enjoyable part of their daily routine. As the Labradoodle’s fur is curly, shed hair that is not brushed out will often remain trapped within the coat, leading to matting and knots that can be a pain to work out later!
You should keep a range of tools at your disposal to groom your dog, in order to have the right equipment to tackle different problems and areas of the coat that have different textures. You will need a comb with wide, blunt teeth, a soft brush, and a metal slicker brush too, as well as possibly other bits and bobs as well that you find useful through trial and error. Using the comb carefully and gently to work right down to the roots of the hair should be your first step, as otherwise, using a brush will tend to simply untangle the top layers of the coat, leaving knots and mats underneath. You should then work the metal slicker brush through the coat gently, before finishing off by grooming the top layer of the coat with the soft brush. While grooming a dog the size of a Labradoodle thoroughly all over their bodies can be time consuming, provided that you stay on top of things and don’t skip a few days, giving knots time to develop, it should just take a couple of minutes each day. You may also want to keep a set of basic, small clippers for clipping off any areas of the coat that are tangled or matted to the point that you cannot work the comb through them, although regular grooming should render this unnecessary. Avoid using scissors to cut at mats and knots, as it is all too easy to inadvertently cut the dog’s skin.
The Labradoodle is one breed of dog that benefits from regular bathing, and ideally, the dog should have a full bath every few weeks in order to keep them smelling fresh and to work out any loose hairs. You may wish to have this taken care of for you at the grooming parlor, but you can of course also wash your dog at home, if you are up for the challenge! Choose the shampoo that you use carefully and ensure that it is not so harsh that it strips the coat of its natural oils, and consider using a conditioner too to replace lost moisture. Always dry the dog off thoroughly after a bath, and try to make it fun and enjoyable for them rather than a stressful challenge!
Meet a dozen labradoodles and you will find a wide variation of coat types. Even within the same litter, the coat type may vary, especially as the dog passes adolescence. Many Labradoodles have wavy coats with quite coarse hairs and the appearance of a flat-coated retriever. Others have the much tighter, softer curls from their poodle lineage. Still others will have a mixed coat with a dry wiry hair growing through soft poodle down. We carry the soft to curly/wavy coats!
Labradoodles are intelligent and trainable, docile and affectionate. Labradoodles tend to have the more attentive nature of the Labrador than the aloofness of the Poodle. They are active and playful, love to work with people, and these traits are often passed down to the Labradoodle. They love Water and Snow and they are good swimmers, just like their parents. They are also great dog for children with AUTISM.
Life span: 12+ years. Both Labradors and Poodles are long-living breeds, so a 15-year-old Labradoodle is not unusual.
When you bring that soft, sweet-smelling little ball of puppy fuzz into your home, you know right away that she depends on you for, well, everything. It’s up to you to give her all the care she needs every day. It can be a little intimidating — she needs the best puppy food, plenty of attention, gentle training, safe toys, puppy socialization, a comfortable home, and proper veterinary care. And that includes puppy shots throughout her first year.
Which Shots Do Puppies Need?
Going to the vet repeatedly over several months for vaccinations, and then for boosters or titters throughout your dog’s life, may seem like an inconvenience, but the diseases that vaccinations will shield our pets from are dangerous, potentially deadly, and, thankfully, mostly preventable.
We read about so many different vaccinations, for so many different illnesses, that it can sometimes be confusing to know which vaccinations puppies need and which ones are important but optional. Here is an overview of the diseases that vaccinations will help your pet to avoid.
This highly infectious bacterium causes severe fits of coughing, whooping, vomiting, and, in rare cases, seizures and death. It is the primary cause of kennel cough. There are injectable and nasal spray vaccines available.
If you plan on boarding your puppy in the future, attending group training classes, or using dog daycare services, often proof of this vaccination will be a requirement.
A severe and contagious disease caused by a virus that attacks the respiratory, gastrointestinal (GI), and nervous systems of dogs, raccoons, skunks, and other animals, distemper spreads through airborne exposure (through sneezing or coughing) from an infected animal. The virus can also be transmitted by shared food and water bowls and equipment. It causes discharges from the eyes and nose, fever, coughing, vomiting, diarrhea, seizures, twitching, paralysis, and, often, death. This disease used to be known as “hard pad” because it causes the foot pad to thicken and harden.
There is no cure for distemper. Treatment consists of supportive care and efforts to prevent secondary infections, control symptoms of vomiting, seizures and more. If the animal survives the symptoms, it is hoped that the dog’s immune system will have a chance to fight it off. Infected dogs can shed the virus for months.
Infectious canine hepatitis is a highly contagious viral infection that affects the liver, kidneys, spleen, lungs, and the eyes of the affected dog. This disease of the liver is caused by a virus that is unrelated to the human form of hepatitis. Symptoms range from a slight fever and congestion of the mucous membranes to vomiting, jaundice, stomach enlargement, and pain around the liver. Many dogs can overcome the mild form of the disease, but the severe form can kill. There is no cure, but doctors can treat the symptoms.
One of several viruses that can contribute to kennel cough.
The canine coronavirus is not the same virus that causes COVID-19 in people. COVID-19 is not thought to be a health threat to dogs, and there is no evidence it makes dogs sick. Canine coronavirus usually affects dogs’ gastrointestinal systems, though it can also cause respiratory infections. Signs include most GI symptoms, including loss of appetite, vomiting, and diarrhea. Doctors can keep a dog hydrated, warm, and comfortable, and help alleviate nausea, but no drug kills coronaviruses.
When your puppy is around 12-to-16 weeks, talk to your vet about starting a heartworm preventive. Though there is no vaccine for this condition, it is preventable with regular medication that your veterinarian will prescribe.
The name is descriptive — these worms lodge in the right side of the heart and the pulmonary arteries (that send blood to the lungs), though they can travel through the rest of the body and sometimes invade the liver and kidneys. The worms can grow to 14 inches long and, if clumped together, block and injure organs.
A new heartworm infection often causes no symptoms, though dogs in later stages of the disease may cough, become lethargic, lose their appetite or have difficulty breathing. Infected dogs may tire after mild exercise. Unlike most of the conditions listed here, which are passed by urine, feces, and other body fluids, heart-worms are transmitted by mosquitoes. Therefore, diagnosis is made via a blood test and not a fecal exam.
Also known as infectious trachea-bronchitis, kennel cough results from inflammation of the upper airways. It can be caused by bacterial, viral, or other infections, such as Bordetella and canine parainfluenza, and often involves multiple infections simultaneously. Usually, the disease is mild, causing bouts of harsh, dry coughing; sometimes it’s severe enough to spur retching and gagging, along with a loss of appetite. In rare cases, it can be deadly. It is easily spread between dogs kept close together, which is why it passes quickly through kennels. Antibiotics are usually not necessary, except in severe, chronic cases. Cough suppressants can make a dog more comfortable.
Unlike most diseases on this list, Leptospirosis is caused by bacteria, and some dogs may show no symptoms at all. Leptospirosis can be found worldwide in soil and water. It is a zoonotic disease, meaning that it can be spread from animals to people. When symptoms do appear, they can include fever, vomiting, abdominal pain, diarrhea, loss of appetite, severe weakness and lethargy, stiffness, jaundice, muscle pain, infertility, kidney failure (with or without liver failure). Antibiotics are effective, and the sooner they are given, the better.
Unlike the famous “bull’s-eye” rash that people exposed to Lyme disease often spot, no such telltale symptom occurs in dogs. Lyme disease (or borreliosis) is an infectious, tick-borne disease caused by a type of bacteria called a spirochete. Transmitted via ticks, an infected dog often starts limping, his lymph nodes swell, his temperature rises, and he stops eating. The disease can affect his heart, kidney, and joints, among other things, or lead to neurological disorders if left untreated. If diagnosed quickly, a course of antibiotics is extremely helpful, though relapses can occur months or even years later.
Parvo is a highly contagious virus that affects all dogs, but unvaccinated dogs and puppies less than four months of age are at the most risk to contract it. The virus attacks the gastrointestinal system and creates a loss of appetite, vomiting, fever, and often severe, bloody diarrhea. Extreme dehydration can come on rapidly and kill a dog within 48-to-72 hours, so prompt veterinary attention is crucial. There is no cure, so keeping the dog hydrated and controlling the secondary symptoms can keep him going until his immune system beats the illness.
Rabies is a viral disease of mammals that invades the central nervous system, causing headache, anxiety, hallucinations, excessive drooling, fear of water, paralysis, and death. It is most often transmitted through the bite of a rabid animal. Treatment within hours of infection is essential, otherwise, death is highly likely. Most states require a rabies vaccination. Check with your vet about rabies vaccination laws in your area.
Of course, your veterinarian should weigh in and can always provide more information and guidance if needed on necessary and optional vaccinations.
Puppy Vaccination Schedule
The first thing to know is that there is not just one puppy vaccination schedule for all dogs. Factors such as which part of the country you live in, and your dog’s individual risk factors will come into play. Some dogs do not need every vaccine. This decision is between you and your veterinarian. Always discuss puppy vaccinations at your regularly scheduled appointments.
That said, here is a generally accepted guideline of the puppy vaccination schedule for the first year.
|Puppy’s Age||Recommended Vaccinations||Optional Vaccinations|
|6 — 8 weeks||Distemper, parvovirus||Bordetella|
|10 — 12 weeks||DHPP (vaccines for distemper, adenovirus [hepatitis], parainfluenza, and parvovirus)||Influenza, Leptospirosis, Bordetella, Lyme disease per lifestyle as recommended by veterinarian|
|16 — 18 weeks||DHPP, rabies||Influenza, Lyme disease, Leptospirosis, Bordetella per lifestyle|
|12 — 16 months||DHPP, rabies||Coronavirus, Leptospirosis, Bordetella, Lyme disease|
|Every 1 — 2 years||DHPP||Influenza, Coronavirus, Leptospirosis, Bordetella, Lyme disease per lifestyle|
|Every 1 — 3 years||Rabies (as required by law)||none|
Puppy Vaccinations Cost
How much vaccinations for your puppy will cost depends on several factors. Where you live is one: Veterinarians in crowded and expensive urban areas will charge more than a rural vet in a small town. In other words, there are significant differences in price. But no matter what the range in costs, some vaccines, such as the “core vaccines,” and for rabies, are necessary.
Vet Info has a helpful guide for the approximate cost of puppy vaccinations for her first year.
- The average cost will be around $75—100. These will include the core vaccines, which are administered in a series of three: at 6-, 12-, and 16 weeks old.
- The core vaccines include the DHLPP (distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parvo, and parainfluenza). Your pup will also need a rabies vaccination, which is usually around $30 — 40. (Some clinics include the cost of the rabies vaccination.)
- Often animal shelters charge less for vaccines — approximately $20 — or are even free. If you acquired your dog from a shelter, he would most likely have been vaccinated, up until the age when you got him.
The initial puppy vaccination costs during the first year are higher than during adulthood.
Our puppies are fully wormed using Safe – Guard Suspension every 2 weeks from birth we recommend that this is continued until your puppy reaches 12 weeks old and then wormed every 3 – 4 months or as recommended by your vet.
Your puppy’s first worming treatment
Worms are one of the most common causes of serious illness in puppies, so it’s important to treat your puppy for worms as soon as they arrive home. Make sure you have all the facts before you get started.
Why is worming important?
A puppy should be wormed as early as two weeks of age. By the time a puppy is old enough to go to a new, forever home (ideally 8 weeks of age, after weaning) it’s vital to maintain a deworming program to ensure your pet stays healthy and comfortable. Intestinal worms such as hookworms, tapeworms and roundworms can make your puppy sick and unable to effectively absorb much-needed nutrients and vitamins. They can also cause blood loss and anemia, which can be serious in the early stages of your puppy’s life. Humans can also contract these parasites, which can lead to intestinal pain, diarrhea and more serious health problems, such as blindness and respiratory issues. In short, you don’t want worms – and neither does your puppy.
Another reason why worming is so important? Puppies can easily get worms from their mother in utero or via their mother’s milk. This is why puppies as young as two weeks old should receive a worming treatment.
What are the signs of worms in puppies?
Not all infected puppies will show obvious signs of having worms, which is why regular treatment is especially important – regardless of whether or not they have any symptoms of worms.
Common signs of worms in puppies include:
- Weakness and listlessness
- Failure to thrive/grow
- Weight loss (despite an increased appetite)
- Abnormally swollen pot-belly
- Stool that contains spaghetti-like worms, mucus or blood
Keep in mind that, with the exception of worms in stool, these symptoms can indicate other health problems – so, check with your vet to be sure.
How do I get rid of worms in puppies?
Although worms are a nasty business, they’re fairly easy to treat. You can give your puppy a worming treatment like Safe Guard Suspension which comes in the form of a liquid oral solution suitable for puppies aged two weeks and older.
Your puppy’s worming schedule
Many puppies are born with worms and acquire more from their mother’s milk, which is why it’s so important to stick to a treatment schedule.
Treat your puppy for worms at:
- 2 weeks old
- 4 weeks (1 month) old
- 6 weeks old
- 8 weeks (2 months) old
- 10 weeks old
- 12 weeks (3 months) old
- 4 months old
- 5 months old
- 6 months old
After your puppy is six months old they should be treated for worms at least once every three months for life.
- I believe in Beginning Immediately – As soon as your adorable Labradoodle is placed in your arms socialization begins. He or she will begin getting to know you and everyone else that lives in your household.
- Help your puppy by making him House Awareness – Your Labradoodle will explore your home as soon as he or she walks in the front door. Allow him or her to run throughout the house discovering new things and getting familiar with their new surroundings. Show your pup their bed, kennel, toys and food dishes.
- Do not Introduce to Family and Friends until they have received second Immunization making them stronger with immunity – Invite your extended family members and close friends to come meet your new pup after the second immunizations. Allow them to hold, play and kiss your pup. This will get your Labradoodle Puppy familiar with being around a lot of people and feel loved and safe.
- Introduce other Pets – Many households have more than one pet. Introduce your pup to the other pets in the household one at a time. Allow them to meet in a quiet room just the two of them with you observing. Keep your pup on a leash so that you can guide him or her and teach acceptable behavior around the other pet.
- Meet the Neighbors again after second immunization – Take your pup for a walk around the neighborhood so he or she can get familiar with other dogs and animals in the area. It is also an excellent chance for your pup to get accustomed to being around wildlife such as birds, squirrels and other animals that can be found in your neighborhood on a regular basis.
- Noise – Whether you live in a big city or a secluded farm your pup will need to get use to hearing a variety of noises. At first loud noises and chaotic noises may feel overwhelming to your pup, but as time goes on they will become familiar and it will eventually become part of their daily life.
- Making Friends – Labradoodles love to play and have a playful, energetic personality. Bring your Labradoodle to the local parks so that he or she can play and socialize with other dogs being careful that the other dog is fully immunized.
In addition to kibble, I suggest adding some fresh foods to the diet, including eggs, meat (raw or cooked), tinned fish (sardines, mackerel, in oil, never in brine), dairy (bio yogurt, cottage cheese) and healthy leftovers (steamed vegetables, meat and fish scraps). This will dramatically improve the quality of whatever diet you feed.
If you intend to switch from the Kibble the puppy has been on for months, be sure to make the switch gradually to avoid digestive upset, i.e, add some of the new kibble to the old before switchover, but dogs that are used to getting different foods all the time rarely have any problems with it.
WE FEED OUR PUPPIES ROYAL CANIN PUPPY KIBBLE
Many people are looking for there Forever family pet since this pandemic. We will do our best to Approve all Appicants and place them on our wait list. Once placed on our wait list we will pick the applications in order as they have been received. Currently we are going through applicants from December 2020. That being said, not all on our list when contact will still be interested in a puppy as they may have found a forever puppy elsewhere. For this reason we do not accept a deposit so customers can have the option to go elsewhere and find that forever friend. A deposit will be accepted only when we can Guarantee you a puppy from a litter that is arriving.
Many people question if they can pick out, see, or play with their puppies before they are ready to go at 8-weeks-old. The answer to the question is NO. There are several reasons why we do not let anyone around the new puppies between birth and 8 weeks – all to protect our dogs and your puppy. Below you will find not only details as to why the answer is no but also information as to what you can do in the mean time to prepare for your puppy.
First, it is extremely stressful for the mom to have strangers visit as she is caring for her new litter. This in turn will put stress on the new born pups. Remember, you are one of many people (sometimes as many as 25) who are getting a puppy, not including everyone else who “just wants to peek at the new babies.” If we allow everyone to see, touch, or spend time with the new pups, the mom’s routine would be disrupted: her eating and caring for pups and even her ability to produce enough healthy milk for them could be at risk.
Like a new baby, the opportunity for young pups to pick up infectious diseases is increased with all new contacts. Their immune systems are building, so at this time, the moms and pups live in whelping nests which have controlled temperatures and are separate from all outside traffic. Most illnesses and diseases are innocently carried on people’s shoes and clothing. Entire litters of puppies can be wiped out within 48 hours by the puppy killer parvo virus. This disease could be picked up unknowingly by people in a school yard, a park, or on a sidewalk, and this is only one disease. We cannot risk exposing our dogs and your puppy to diseases that could destroy them.
Your puppy is not the only puppy. By protecting all of our puppies from stress and disease that could be brought on by high traffic, we are protecting your puppy. Just think about how you would feel if someone who just wanted to see his or her pup happened to bring in stress or illness that would cause us to lose a litter and you to lose your future puppy. We have heard from many people that pet stores, other breeders, or other kennels let clients visit puppies; the reality is that their number one concern is selling a puppy. Also, will those people be there to support you, replace the puppy, or guide you in the days, weeks, or years after you get your puppy home? Are they willing and capable to help you with training, breeding, behavioral, or health questions? Just because someone allows you to see the puppy, it does not indicate the quality of dog or of service you will receive throughout the puppy’s lifetime.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. We take great care and much time caring for all of our dogs and their puppies. It is time and energy consuming. This is what we do best, so please let us do it. We understand your excitement, and we are happy that you are enthusiastic about getting your pup. But until you take your puppy home, we are responsible and the puppy’s health and safety is our priority. I guarantee you that in 8 weeks after the birth it will be well worth your wait.
IN THE MEANTIME WHAT CAN YOU DO?
You can come and meet your puppy when it has been vet checked, immunized, and are 8 weeks old. Until then we will take their first pictures at one week old where you are able to see what they look like and pick your puppy. The next set of pictures will be taken at 5 weeks and will also post a video of your baby to see how they are growing.
You can visit our Facebook page, https://www.facebook.com/labradoodlesbycucciolini.ca/ , where we often post pictures of new litters and puppies.
You can prepare your home for your new puppy:
- Puppy proof your house.
- Get a Midwest (type of dog crate) for crate training.
- Get some good puppy toys (we recommend Mylar bones, gummy bones, and other chew toys – not stuffed or squeaky because the pup can choke on stuffing and the squeaker).
- Get your leash and collar (9″-12″).
- Get dog food (we feed Royal Canin Puppy).
- Get stainless steel food and water dishes.
Hopefully you can keep busy until your puppy is ready to go home!
Feel free to send us an email with questions to firstname.lastname@example.org We’re here to talk with you about the progress of the pups.
What you need to keep your pup feeling safe, secure, and contented is a home within your home that he can call his own. And nothing fits the bill like a crate from MidWest, the largest home builder for pets headquartered in the United States.
We manufacture crates for dogs of all breeds, shapes, and sizes. Dogs love ’em! And so do dog lovers, or we’d never have stayed in business all these decades, let alone achieved our success in the marketplace.
That said, your pup has to be trained to recognize the crate you choose for him as his home. Otherwise, he’ll pick a “nesting place” for himself, and it may not be to your liking! Training your pup isn’t necessarily difficult. But not all pups take to it – which may call for another solution. Don’t worry. We’ve got all sorts of comfortable solutions to satisfy you and your pup if a crate isn’t the answer. To help you decide, we offer the following articles:
- Why Crate Training? – a bit of background that, among other things, explains the major benefits a crate can provide
- The ABC’s of Crate Training – a step-by-step guide covering the basic training procedure and techniques
- Do’s and Dont’s of Puppy Training – some words of caution and encouragement to help the training go smoother
Consider these articles part and parcel of our commitment to superior customer service. After all, we want you and your pup to get the most out of our products, all of which are designed to promote a lasting, loving relationship between you. If you have questions, please don’t hesitate to contact MidWest Homes for Pets™.
The non-aggressive, affectionate nature generally found with Labradoodles is not gender related. Both males and females make excellent family members. We recommend that you have your puppy spayed or neutered at a time that your vet advises. Not only does this protect your pets from a variety of diseases and disorders, it also removes the hormones responsible for some of the more gender related traits such as ‘marking’ territory.
Yes we do! Our experience is that crates provide a ‘safe’ place for you Labradoodle that makes them feel comfortable and unstressed. For this reason they should never be used as a punishment, but always be associated with being a good dog. They relieve you of any worry when you leave your dog for a while, keep puppies safe from visiting children, make transporting dogs safer and easier, and make you and your dog welcome visitors in the homes of other people. They will aid toilet training of your puppy and make sure that you get a good night’s sleep!
All dogs dislike being left on their own for long periods and Labradoodles are no exception. Labradoodles are very intelligent dogs and need lots of social interaction and mental stimulation. Deprived of this environment, as with other breeds renowned for their intelligence, their frustration and unhappiness could lead to behavior problems. If your lifestyle would mean frequently leaving a dog on its own for lengthy periods, it is unlikely that the Labradoodle is the dog for you.
Labradoodles, because of their highly intelligent and social nature, are easy to train and generally quite eager to learn new tasks. They are pleaser’s and bond to their humans well. As with all breed, however, early and consistent training are vitally important.
Labradoodle are believed to be a lot more allergy-friendly dogs.
Besides dander, this breed is well-known for its low or no-shed fur coat and low quantity of saliva -which means people with allergies and special needs can easily have access to a labradoodle without the fear of hypersensitivity and other allergic attacks.
The three coat types are:
Woolly: Similar to that of the Poodle. This coat requires regular grooming and is allergy-friendly.
Fleece: This is the best coat for allergy sufferers. Fleece coats are easy to maintain, they do not shed, and they are allergy and asthma friendly.
Hair: This coat can range from straight to curly or wavy. It can vary from shedding a lot to shedding very little. This coat is not likely to be allergy-friendly.
As with all puppies under 12 months old, exercise needs to be restricted. This is to prevent hip and joint problems, which can be induced at this time of rapid growth. Cycling, jogging and stairs should also be avoided. Free play in the garden or 15 – 20 minutes walking on the leash are ample with a gradual increase as they become older. As an adult your Labradoodle will need a moderate amount of exercise; they make great running, jogging, cycling and even swimming companions. Labradoodles excel at agility and obedience, fetch and Frisbee. They are eager to learn and make great working dogs.
Many dog owners are divided on the subject of crate training. Dogs are den-based animals and we believe when done properly a crate provides a comfy spot for your pooch – and a great tool for training, traveling or simply keeping a curious young puppy calm and safe. The golden rule to keep in mind at all times is that the crate is a happy place and a safe spot in which to rest.
If you’re considering crate training, there are some important considerations. That’s why we’ve created a guide to crate training for puppies based on our experience. For full disclosure, we aren’t professional dog trainers nor behaviorists. We’re simply loving dog owners who have read a lot, experienced a little and can share what has worked for us.
Keep reading for our six-step guide on how to crate train your puppy.
Choosing a Crate for your puppy
Crates come in all shapes, sizes, colors and materials. What is most important for your puppy is the size. The perfect crate should be large enough for standing, sitting and stretching but not so large that your dog can make a mess at one end and ignore it.
When Smudge was a baby she was so tiny that all crates we could find were far too big, so we simply used a couple of pillows to block off one side and that worked just fine.
Making it Cozy
One of the principals of crate training is appealing to the natural instinct of dogs as denying animals. Solid walls and a roof make for a nice cosy feel, but a wire crate covered by a towel or blanket can be just as good, especially for night times.
Don’t worry too much about hard bottomed crates looking uncomfortable as they can soon be improved with a blanket or two. Remember, you can always throw these in the wash if there are any accidents along the way.
One sure-fire way to make your puppy think of the crate fondly is to make it fun. Their favorite toys, blankets and occasional treats are perfect for this.
Introducing the Crate
Inquisitive puppies will normally be excited to explore a potential den. If this happens naturally, simply reward them to reinforce that the crate is a fun place. If they aren’t so sure, a little bribery with treats and toys won’t harm.
It’s important to get your puppy used to being without you to avoid separation anxiety. Start by leaving them in their crate for nap time and leaving the room. If your dog cries, wait for them to calm down before letting them out so that they don’t learn that making a fuss gets a response.
Crate Training and Toilet Training
Crate training is a great tool when it comes to toilet training or house training. By giving them frequent opportunity to go to the loo outside and praising them when they do, you will quickly be on track for a fully trained pooch.
How long should I leave my puppy in the crate?
The rule of thumb is their age in months plus one hour. So for a 12-week-old puppy (3 months) that would be 4 hours max but we’d recommend less if possible. Young puppies have little bladder control and will need to release frequently.
By adopting a routine and following each activity (feeding time, nap time, playtime) with a toilet break, accidents will be difficult to come by and you may even enjoy toilet training. A typical routine would be:
Take your puppy directly from the crate to the designated toilet spot outside and use your command word. Ours was “go wee wee”. First thing, your puppy will be excited to play with you and forget their bladder needs, so it’s important to keep redirecting them to the designated spot until they go. When they do make sure to offer lots of praise and then give them their breakfast.
It’s back to potty time and once successful reward your puppy with a 20-30 minutes play period. Puppies sleep an awful lot and you may find you playful puppy starts to get sleepy during play time. Before re-crating them, it’s time for potty time again.
Nap time in their crate and continuously Repeat:
potty time / feed time / potty time / play time / potty time / nap time
Can I leave my dog in their crate at night time?
Initially, puppies are unable to sleep through the night without needing to go to the toilet, so you’ll find that you’ll need to take them outside every 2-3 hours during the night, but this will quickly build to them sleeping the night through.
Night times aside, avoid leaving your dog for more than a few hours in their crate. Dogs are social animals and long periods of time alone is not good for their well-being.
In the long term
Once your puppy is toilet trained, we’d recommend leaving their crate available in one of their favorite spots. It’s their sanctuary and you’ll find them there when they need some alone time. Smudge often naps in hers during the day and her crate is her go to safe place during fireworks and stormy weather.
The purchase price of a “CUCCIOLINI F1B LABRADOODLE includes:
Veterinarian will give your puppy’s exam which includes Ears, Eyes,Teeth, Gums, Genitals and more… Based on your puppies history and age he will vaccinate your puppy with First core vaccinations, such as canine parovirus, canine distemper, bordetella and rabies.
- Complete Veterinarian examination of Heart, Lungs and Joints
- International Registrable M4S Microchip
- Starter supply of ROYAL CANINE Puppy Food
- CUCCIOLINI Contract and 2 Year Health Warranty.
- A lifetime of support from lABRADOODLE BY CUCCIOLINI pertaining to questions you might have regarding your CUCCIOLINI PUPPY
- Toys and Blanket WITH MOMS SCENT
- Collar, Leash, Bandana
- 6 weeks FREE Health Insurance
- Crate training (we begin crate training at 6 weeks)
- Human and canine socialization
1. Introduce your puppy to its new home
The first day with your new puppy can be overwhelming for both your family and for the puppy. Take the time to do proper introductions with your new puppy to foster positive bonds in the household. Puppy training, which should start on day one, will help you both understand each other better.
Take the following steps during the first day to help your puppy feel comfortable in its new environment:
- Introduce your puppy to family members and the home early in the day.
- Introduce the puppy to its sleeping area.
- Show the pup the outdoor space or area where you expect it to do its business.
- Give your puppy plenty of time to explore its new environment while you supervise.
- Start using your pup’s name so it gets used to paying attention when you call its name.
2. Help the puppy settle in on the first night
The first night can be scary for your puppy, but taking steps to create a safe and cosy environment can help it settle in. Leave a faint light on, and leave the radio playing to help mask any potentially scary new sights or sounds your puppy may experience. Place a few toys and an old T-shirt in its crate or sleeping space to create a warm, cosy and safe place.
Remember: It’s been a big day for both of you, so cries for attention are normal, even for the first few nights. Resist the temptation to immediately comfort your puppy when you hear it cry. Although it’s natural for puppies to cry in a new environment, only check in when the crying stops, so they know you’re not far away. This way, you’re not making a direct connection between crying and receiving immediate attention. Instead, only reward good behavior so your puppy learns that being quiet gets your attention.
The use of dog pheromones can help some puppies adjust to new surroundings faster – ask your pet health professional for more advice.
3. Start toilet training right away
Good behavior is built on a good training program, which means puppies must be house-trained as early as possible. Puppies should go outside after:
- When excited
After any of these events, take the puppy outside (or if you live in an apartment, to its pee mat or fake-grass box) so it learns where to go to relieve itself.
Reward good behavior with positive reinforcement like praise words, pats and treats, but never punish what you don’t see. Simply clean up, don’t say anything or don’t rub your puppy’s nose in its mess or smack the pup – it doesn’t help with training, and yelling only makes it avoid and fear you.
4. Socialize your puppy
Socializing your puppy as soon as possible will help it fit into a human environment. Socialization is an important step in ensuring your puppy properly interacts with other humans, dogs and new situations.
Properly socializing your puppy can be tricky, but the following tips can help you make a good start:
- Your tone of voice, body language and stress levels affect how your pet reacts, so always set a good example and remain calm.
- Introduce new experiences like children, shopping trolleys and lawn mowers early so the pet is not afraid of these later in life.
- Meeting other pets can be stressful, so allow them to observe each other at a safe distance and never force them together.
Make sure your puppy is up to date with vaccinations and parasite protection before it starts mingling with other dogs. Ask your vet when it’s safe for your pup to socialize with other dogs.
5. Make the vet visit a positive experience
With all of the strange smells, animals and people, a visit to the vet can be stressful for your puppy and for you, but it doesn’t have to be. Important preparations like vaccinations, worming treatments or parasite prevention and micro-chipping usually occur during the first vet visit, so to limit stress, try to make vet visits during puppy-hood a fun experience.
CHILDREN WITH AUTISM AND LABRADOODLES
GRACE AND ROCKY
“They adore each other Carmelina you couldn’t have picked a better partner for Grace! Rocky is doing amazing in his training and has never missed one of Grace’s meltdowns; even without us prompting him, he goes straight to her and won’t leave her until she’s calmed down…which happens much faster now that she has Rocky. It’s been one of the best decisions we’ve made to have a service dog for Grace, but we could not have ever imagined what an amazing dog Rocky has turned out to be…thank you doesn’t even begin to let you know how grateful we are! “
Raising an Autistic child is a uniquely challenging job requiring a tremendous amount of time and effort. Parents constantly looking for any and all ways they can help their child control his repetitive behavior or improve his self-care, social and communication skills.
Scientists now believe that Autism and the other Autistic Spectrum Disorders are caused by poor connectivity within and between major brain structures. Genetic and other factors come into play but ultimately autistic behaviors are outcomes of how their brains are ‘wired’.
Autism remains a mysterious and devastating affliction in the world. Poorly understood, it is sometimes slow to diagnose, resulting in unhappy childhoods for the children suffering from it as well as their families, who find the communication problems, emotional instability, and lack of social development in their child to be frustrating and ominous. This is often followed by intense guilt when the diagnosis is made and they feel that they have been unfair to a child suffering from a disorder that often makes “normal” behavior impossible.
The good news is that there are many therapies that both the autistic child and their family can engage in that can help them assimilate more effectively into society and help the family adjust to their new reality. And one of the most effective strategies is the introduction of a service dog to the life of the autistic child – and more often than not, the ideal breed for an autism service dog is the F1B Labradoodle.
“Grace has had a few struggles, with school and readjusting… and now the transition to summer poor girl, but Rocky has been by her side all the way through it…omg he is worth his weight in gold! Rocky has NOT missed one meltdown yet…doesn’t matter where Grace is in the home Rocky finds her right away as soon as she starts to lose control…and he will NOT leave her until she’s settled! Grace has even started to ask for her “dog” when she feels upset…omg he’s amazing!!! So smart, so gentle and oh so loving…although right now he’s bouncing around like a rabbit and banging into everything…so yes still a goofy puppy…
Service dogs for the autistic serve different roles than service dogs for other handicaps, such as the deaf, blind, or even mentally challenged. Autistic children are often highly functioning, able to understand complex subjects and perform at high mental levels, but have extreme difficulty with social interaction and emotional control. Outbursts are very common, as are angry episodes and anxiety attacks.
In these scenarios, trained service dogs have been shown to act as an emotional and social anchor for the autistic child. Continuity of experience is often comforting for the autistic, and the dog provides a calm through-line in the day, a constant presence that the autistic child can rely on to comfort them even in unfamiliar or anxiety-causing situations. In addition, the dog provides an affectionate companion that does not judge or require opaque social rules that the autistic often find confusing and meaningless, allowing for a stress-free relationship that has been proven to reduce anxiety and emotional stress.
Part of what makes the Labradoodle ideal for service dog duty is their innate personalities. They are calm, affectionate animals that are easy to train. The latter is very important, because training a dog to be a service animal for the autistic takes time, and must generally begin when the dog is quite young – often right after birth. Labradoodle puppies must be trained specifically in indoor living, neonatal stimulation, behavioural molding, and socializing with people of both sexes and all ages.
Dogs as young as 8 weeks can and often are deployed to families dealing with autistic children. Introducing the puppy at such a young age allows for a deep bond to develop between the child and the animal, which increases the chances of a successful service relationship. However, the Labradoodle must pass a training certification before it can be deployed as a service dog and some puppies require more lengthy training periods.
The warm, friendly personality of the Labradoodle has made it an ideal candidate to be a service dog, especially with the emotionally and socially difficult affliction of autism. The fact that the family itself can also enjoy the dog simply as a wonderful pet is also an advantage, as Labradoodles can easily serve both roles.
So what we do to help in the training process is hugging the puppies 3 or more times per day making them very social to touch, rubbing there bodies placing our fingers through their hair, playing with there ears as the puppy needs to get accustom to being touched continuously helping them become calm with touch/feel daily. Children with Autism have a desire to constantly want attention, so touching, talking playing and having the company of a pet whom responds to there needs. Pressure therapy is a type of rub where there is minimal pressure to get the puppy accustom to a child’s constant touch. Many children with autism seem to need to smell everything to feed their sensory input. This may be related to the need to gain more information through a sensory channel with which they are more comfortable. Providing pleasing smells may be helpful, but it is probably more helpful to improve the other sensory systems for gaining information.
Ways to Help People with Autism and Sensory Sensitivities Feel Safe and Grounded
- Learn about their potential triggers: Every individual experiences sensory difficulties differently. Ask what affects them and how it feels in their body. Be patient if they are having difficulty describing sensations. Just listen.
- Encourage the use of headphones in public spaces to minimize over stimulation. Allow them to do what they need to regulate without suggesting judgment or social appropriateness. Self-care is always appropriate.
- Offer toys for stimulation that help reduce anxiety and improve concentration. Small toys like fidget spinners, silly putty, and magnets have become popularized for individuals with and without sensory processing issues. The use of toys meets emotional needs as well as encouraging playfulness and creativity.
- Teach them mindfulness skills. When struggling with over stimulation, one of the easiest resources to access is focusing on one’s breath. Whether this is for awareness or control, it helps the body to self-regulate by stimulating the parasympathetic nervous system. Mindfulness encourages people to separate the specific senses that are overwhelming them so that they can identify specific interventions to regulate those senses. Mindfulness strengthens one’s sense of preconception and understanding where their body is in space and time using grounding techniques.
- Encourage them to advocate for their sensory needs in classrooms and social settings. Remind them that although other people may not understand their sensory differences, they can educate them on how to better help them adjust to the environment without judgment.
- Create and seek out sensory-conscious environments. If parks are too crowded, find a trail. If movie theaters are overstimulating, find a library. In a classroom, allow students to stand up, sit on the ground, or to walk around if it helps improve focus. Look for movement-based activities that encourage grounding and coordination, such as yoga, walking, tai chi, or dance. Lower the volume of music. Dim lights.
Common Sensory Sensitivities:
- Loud sounds
- Bright lights
- Noticing small changes in the environment
- Having trouble filtering out background noises
- Clumsiness and lack of coordination
- Being fidgety
- Problems with depth perception
- Difficulty understanding personal space
- Sensitive to being touched, especially when unexpected
- Difficulty integrating multiple sensory inputs at the same time, such as reading lips before they are able to hear someone speak
All our puppies are handled from the minute they are born and the testing we do on each and every puppy are: Cradle the puppy on its back like a baby and that is how they drink from a bottle we place a hand gently on its chest looking at his eye, they are not afraid of human hands and voices. Actually as soon as they hear my voice the all come towards me with Wagging tales. We also Hold puppies suspended from the armpits and there hind legs dangling they don’t like that as much but once they are placed back on the ground they feel better. Our puppies are surrounded by much noise like Vacuuming, Ongoing Music as they sleep and when awake, they are used to being handled 10 or more times per day and they don’t mind that at all. When puppies go to there forever homes they are not afraid at all there are accustomed to people and toys and sounds. Our customers say they are incredibly easy to train and are absolutely happy the way we train our puppies from the day they enter the world.
Ways to Help Your Child Overcome a Fear of Dogs
1.First, understand your child’s fear. Spiders, snakes, public speaking — most of us are a little unnerved by something. And although our logic tells us a tiny bug or a short speech won’t actually hurt us “fear isn’t rational, a certified dog behavior consultant and pet dog trainer would benefit to help in the transition, “so rational talk isn’t going to help him through your fear.” That means the first step to helping your child overcome fear of dogs is to recognize and accept that the fear is there.
2.Then, watch what you say. Be sure you’re not unintentionally creating — or reinforcing — a child’s fear of dogs with the words you choose. “I’ve heard people say well-intentioned but awful things to their kids,” “Things like, ‘Pet that dog under his chin, or else he might bite you,’ or a parent will tell their child to ask a stranger ‘Does your dog bite?'” Words have great power to inform a child’s view of dogs as dangerous, or as new friends to meet, so choose your words carefully.
3.Take puppy steps. There’s no reason to rush your child into face-to-face doggy introductions. You don’t need to force them to be around dogs right away, that may backfire and just increase your child’s fear.” Instead, gradually introduce your child to dogs, starting with picture books, TV, movies, then from a distance, perhaps in a park or sitting outside a pet supply store. “Gradually increase the intensity of the exposure, “but be sensitive to whether any one step is too much for your child. If it is, go back to the previous step. “The biggest mistake I find people make is not going at the child’s own pace. We need to let them set the pace, let them say when they’re ready to go closer.”
4.Like little kids, puppies are unpredictable, wiggly, excitable, and when they’re very young “they still have the moodiness going on, and “the last thing you want is for a puppy to run up and give your child a little nip.” You can also look for a group that does doggy meet and greets in your area or reading programs where therapy dogs go into libraries. “Situations like that where the child isn’t immediately forced to interact are very helpful.” Taking things slow is the key!
5.Learn a little doggish. In these early interactions, you’ll have lots of time to teach your child about canine communication. “Dogs don’t have a verbal language, “so they communicate with facial expressions and body postures.” For example, look for that famous doggy smile, which is “mouth open, lips pulled back, tongue sort of lolling, and no tension in the face. “It looks similar to our smile and it’s an invitation to interact and can be interpreted the same way as you would a smile in humans.” To help your child learn these cues, look at a book of photos of dogs, and ask your child ‘What’s that dog feeling? “Then go to a park and do the same thing, look at dogs and talk about them. That’s how I’d start.”
6.Search out dressed-up dogs. As silly as it sounds, kids (and adults) are often far less fearful of canines in clothes, so be sure to point out dressed-up pooches to your child. “I found that if I dress my dogs in bandanas, or put their therapy vests on, it makes a huge difference for kids. “And it works for adults to — the brighter the clothes the better! “Something about the clothing just makes people more likely to approach.”
7.Petting a pooch. Once your child is ready to take the plunge and touch a dog, it’s a good idea to keep the pooch occupied and let your child pet the dog’s body instead of the more-intimidating head. “You don’t want the dog looking at your child because the dog’s face is what tends to be scary to kids.
8.Prepare for the sniff and lick. When a child is ready to let the dog interact “parents need to understand that dogs check you out by sniffing you, so make sure your little one is prepared. “Tell your child ‘The dog is going to sniff you, and he might give you a kiss!'” That quick smooch can be a dog’s way of giving your child the thumbs up, or the canine way of getting to know you better.
9.Teach kids manners. Safe and happy interactions between kids and dogs have a lot to do with “teaching kids gentleness and respect at a very young age. So be sure you teach your little one to never push, hit, or tease a dog, or pull on a dog’s tail.
10. Always ask. Finally, the most important thing: BE PATIENT IT WILL COME AS SOON AS LELAND IS READY
Commands to help a Dog Learn
1.WATCH – to get the dog’s attention.
2.WATCH ME – to make eye contact
3.SIT – to sit on her rump
4.DOWN – to put her entire body lying down on the floor
5.STAND – to stand on all four legs
6.COME – to advance to your side and sit in a heel position
7.HERE – to advance to you in no specific position
8.STAY – to freeze in her current position
9.WAIT – to stop moving forward
10.RELEASE – to be done with work
11.NO – to get the puppy’s attention and tell her she is not doing the correct thing
12.DON’T – to refrain from commencing with a bad behavior that is not wanted
13.OFF – to remove herself from whatever item or object she is on and place all her feet back on the floor
14.LET’S GO – to start to move
15.HEEL – to be in position on your left side
16.SIDE – to be in position on your right side
17.LEAVE IT – to move her head away from whatever she is touching or about to touch and making eye contact with you
18.GET BUSY – to go to the bathroom
19.SETTLE – to calm down
20.GO THROUGH – to move ahead of the person turn around and position herself to be able to back up through a narrow doorway or passage
21.BACK – to step backwards
22.FOLLOW – to move behind you as she moves forward through a door or passage
23.GO AROUND – to move around the person or object
24.MOVE – to physically move her body in any direction
25.CLOSER – to move closer to within inches of you
26.GO TO – to go over to another person
27.UNDER – to crawl into a space and bring in paws in tail out of the way
28.THAT’S ALL – to stop the behavior
29.CAREFUL – to approach carefully
30.GET A DRINK – to get a drink of water
31.QUIET – to stop barking, whining, howling